Hungary  ·  Spring 2026

The journey began the way the best Hungarian adventures do — aboard a train. Rolling eastward out of Budapest, the city’s rooftops giving way to sunlit plains and the gentle swell of the Northern Uplands. Eger arrived with the unhurried charm of a town that has never needed to announce itself. We found a park bench, unwrapped our lunch, and ate with the easy contentment of travellers who have nowhere to be but precisely where they are.

Arriving at our…Ahhheeemm…Accomodation

Our accommodation, however, tested that contentment. Generous in its use of the word “hotel,” it was a hostel in all but name. Four rooms perched on the top floor, each with its own bathroom. A shared common area anchored by what was diplomatically labelled a kitchen. In practice, this meant a microwave and a hot plate. We unpacked with tempered expectations and took it in good humour. We were fortunate that we were the only guests that evening. I think we all know that, sometimes, reviews are a bit misleading.

“Ninety-seven steps, spiralling upward in the dark — the minaret’s reputation preceded it.”

The minaret stood nearby our lodging, its Ottoman silhouette rising against the blue sky. It was ninety-seven steps coiling upward in claustrophobic darkness. We considered it seriously, debated, and ultimately declined. This decision felt entirely reasonable and only slightly like cowardice. Instead, we sought out the Valley of Beautiful Women, Eger’s celebrated wine district. The local shuttle, however, would only accept Hungarian Forint which we didn’t possess. So we walked, and the twenty-five minutes passed pleasantly enough beneath the afternoon sun.

The Valley of Beautiful Women

The valley more than rewarded the effort. We settled into three different wine cellars, drifting between patios dappled in shade, a balmy twenty-five degrees lending everything the warmth of a long, unhurried afternoon. Crisp white wines arrived in succession — local varieties, honest and expressive. We closed the afternoon with two reds that lingered richly on the palate. For €15 for all three caves, it was also incredibly reasonable. However, much like our visit to Porto, we drank more than we planned to. I’m sure everyone does. (see our earlier post on Porto)

Dinner followed: al fresco, candle-lit, lovely in every sense of the word.

Our second morning belonged to Eger Castle. We spent three hours wandering its ramparts and halls, absorbing centuries of siege and defiance layered into every stone. Afterwards, lunch in the park — a lángos, golden and pillowy, the kind of street food that asks for no accompaniment. Then the train, westward this time, carrying us back to Budapest with full stomachs, wine-warm memories, and the quiet satisfaction of a journey well spent.

Getting to Eger

If you go, trains run every hour from Budapest to Eger or vice versa. There’s no need to book in advance as trains rarely sell out and seat reservations are not required. Do validate your ticket onboard. The train ride is approximately two hours. The Eger station is about a 25-minute walk to the Tourist Info centre/central square. There are also buses and taxis.

During the summer and on weekends, it is advisable to have hotel reservations. We were there at the beginning of May during shoulder season. A few of the wine bars were closed during the afternoon we visited, but most were open. During the weekends and on holidays and through the summer all wine bars are normally opened. The walk from downtown Eger to the Valley of Beautiful Women is approximately 25 minutes at a gentle pace. A shuttle will take you there for 1,400 Ft ($4.50 USD), Hungarian cash only.

Eger is a city you should make time for, and an overnight would be much more rewarding than a day trip.

To read about our time in Budapest, see our 8-days in Hungary post

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Eger, Hungary, Overnight  ·  A journey remembered