Yukon – Way up North!

June 30^th – we head to the Yukon

This summer, we headed to the Yukon for the first time. Our cousin, Arthur, had visited us twice when we made a cruise ship stop in Skagway. Each time he drove for 1 ½ hours each way and showed us the sights on both sides of the border. It was time we visited him.

After deciding to head up to the Yukon, our next decision was how to get there. It’s not exactly close. It would be about 30 hours driving time including the ferry. A flight would take about 2 ½ hours. As we were looking at our options, Air North, the flag carrier of the Yukon, had a special. We could fly directly from Victoria to Whitehorse for a great price – sold!

A bit of a hiccup with our rental car…

When we arrived at Whitehorse airport and picked up our rental car it turned out to cost a lot more than we were expecting. There was VERY SMALL print that said the quoted rate was in US dollars. How is that possible? This is a Canadian company, operating in a Canadian airport. There weren’t really many options at 7:30 PM the night before the July 1^st stat holiday so we took it. The other fine print also had us getting only 200km/day (note:Canadian kilometers, not US miles); 1,200 km in total. Ouch.

It was a short drive to Arthur’s – the town is not very big by our standards. He was expecting us with Traeger wings and cold beverages.

July 1^st – Canada Day

The rickety suspension bridge – it’s a lot of fun to cross!

The next morning, July 1^st, we were treated to a scrumptious breakfast of eggs, fresh rye bread and the most delicious back bacon I have ever had. It was homemade on his smoker, and I am hopeful to get the recipe. Once we were done eating, we headed out to explore the sites.

Starting with Miles Canyon, a geological wonder where the Yukon River flows through high basalt walls. The river flows so fast in the canyon, it does not freeze in winter, even at -30C! The suspension bridge that joins the two sides is similar to the ones you would see in the movies. It “swings” a bit and is a bit rickety, making the experience all the more enjoyable. The trails are well groomed and we travelled up and down a few of them.

Heading into town, we saw many more sites and learned about the history of the town. Arthur’s been there since 1988, long before tourism et al, and has seen a lot of changes. There was an air of festivity in the town and families were taking advantage of the Canada Day activities. After lunch we headed back to his place and explored his 3 ½ acre property. That evening we had a great steak barbeque with all the fixings. Meeting two of his four children was great, they were keen to help out with dinner.

July 2^nd – Off to Dawson City

Robert Service’s cabin – he wrote some of his poems in this house

Dawson City – gateway to the gold fields. Gold was discovered in 1896. It was actually discovered well before then by the Indigenous people, but they had no use for it.

The drive to Dawson City was 535 km on a paved road – other than a few sections that were under construction. It took just over six hours and had amazing scenery. Making a few stops for snacks and to admire the views, while reading historical markers, broke up the long drive. Our hotel was the Holland America Dawson City Hotel, and it was a great hotel. The front façade was done up in the gold rush style. There were wooden boardwalks in front of it, and all buildings. Our room, on the second floor, was quite nice with a mini fridge and kettle.

Gerties wing at our hotel in Dawson – the rooms are modern. The outside is made to look like the gold rush days

Once we were settled in, we went out to explore and learn about the gold rush. In 1896, Skookum Joe and his partners found gold and they gathered up a lot of it. They had struck it rich. The gold was taken down to San Francisco. Of course, word of ‘gold’ sparked a stampede and by 1898 the population of Dawson City grew from 250 to 40,000. It was the largest town north of San Francisco. The newspapers of the day reported you could just walk down the street and pick up gold nuggets, no mining was needed. There’s a sucker born every minute.

Some of the challenges of the Yukon

Panning for gold was hard work that could only be done with one hand. The other hand was busy swatting mosquitos. Tents were pitched all through the city and up the hill. Dysentery, typhoid and other nasty things were prevalent. It wasn’t all sunshine.

Then you had the weather. The town was isolated for eight months of the year. The river froze up, the snow came and it was dark for 24 hours. Of course it was light for 24 hours in the summer. Very few people made it rich. While the first shipment of gold was heading down to San Francisco, the locals were staking claims to the rivers around the initial find. By the time the outside hopefuls arrived, there were no more claims to be had. Those who came up ended up working for merchants. The entrepreneurial opened up shops with the vocational skills they brought with them such as blacksmithing, baking, etc.

Panning for gold – unfortunately we did not strike it rich.

At the end of the gold rush, it is estimated only about 20 people actually made it rich. Some of the most successful, other than the few who had good claims, were those who mined miner’s pockets. Every miner needed supplies. If you could get the goods to Dawson City, you could sell them for whatever you wanted. Wages were $10/day for general labourers but it cost $10/day to live up there. General stores loaded up goods in the short season from May – August and then sold them for the next eight months. The North West Mounted Police, forerunner to the Royal Canadian Mounted Police, kept law and order. It is said there was not a single robbery during the gold rush.

July 3^rd – Dawson City

Having learned a bit about the gold rush, we wanted to learn more. The Parks Canada office ran a number of tours and we decided to visit Dredge #4 on the Bonanza River, 15 km out of town. Driving to the Dredge, we stopped at ‘Discovery Claim’ to read about some of the history of mining and the early explorers, including Skookum Jim. He was a real person.

At the end of the walking loop, it was certainly time to go to the Dredge as the mosquitos were terrible. Although we had bug spray, the fact we left it in our hotel room meant it would still be available for next time . At the Dredge, we spent just over an hour learning how this barge, and others like it, travelled up the rivers. It was electrically powered and designed to get the gold that was buried in the river. Sadly, it was not done in a way that left the land unscathed nor workers in good health. Huge barges would scoop out tons of dirt that would be put through a sieve. Rocks were discarded and the sand was filtered. Gold, being heavy, fell to the bottom. It was this process, known as ‘placer mining’, that extracted the gold.

Gold mining on a commercial scale

The rocks and other debris were left behind in a trail that altered the rivers, choking out fish and animals. Today you can still see the tailings left behind. While they were not chemically treated, the topography was altered. As the gold production fell, it of course, became economically unviable and the barges were abandoned, right where they did their last shift. All over the Yukon, machinery is left to rust in place. It is simply not worth it to haul it out of the backcountry.

Having learned about the process of mining gold, we decided to give panning for gold a try. The visitor centre lends out gold pans and there is a claim, on the river, that is owned by the Territory. They allow anyone who wants to try their hand at gold mining a chance to try it. A local mine regularly dumps fresh tailings that might have some gold in it. After an hour, Meg had found three gold flecks. I found three less than she did. Fortunately, we have other jobs.

We were lucky to see a cow moose with her two calfs in the wild!

Our picnic lunch had a great view, and while we were eating, we could not believe what we saw. A cow moose with two calves. Moose are almost mythical beings – very few people have actually seen them. We stared at them and then thought to get pictures and videos. While we are hopeful for the cute calves, odds are not on their side. Bears, foxes and others find them delicious – and we did see a wolf nearby! It’s a tough world out there. That’s why cows have two calves, normally every second year.

Touring the town and restored buildings

Back in town, we took a Parks Canada walking tour that provided access to a number of historical buildings otherwise inaccessible. The bank, the saloon, the brothel, newspaper office and post office have all been done up in period or are being restored.

The midnight sun – this picture was taken in Dawson City at 11PM

For a tourist town, there were a number of eateries and dinner at the Triple J was great. This was followed by a drive up to the midnight dome. Back in 1900-something, a group of locals decided to see the 24-hour sun from the highest point, Dome Mountain. One thing they did not factor in: they are south of the Arctic Circle. You have to be north of 66 to see the sun “not” go down on Jun 21^st. In Dawson City, the sun drops for a short time. When we were there, sunset was 00:45 and sunrise was 03:30. It never got dark, but blackout curtains in the hotel made it seem like night.

July 4^th – back to Whitehorse.

Heading back to Whitehorse, we retraced our drive, hitting a few different historical sites, one of which was Montague Roadhouse. Back in the day, you could travel by sternwheeler on the Yukon River between Whitehorse and Dawson City. During the winter, travel had to be over land by horse and sled. It took 7 – 8 days and was cold. Roadhouses were about every 25 miles and there you either bunked down for the night, or changed horses. If it was below -35C, they would not travel. Each Roadhouse had a large potbelly stove where one could warm up, mittens could be dried out and gossip exchanged. Once we were back in Whitehorse, we were treated to Arthur’s ribs, basted in his homemade sauce. Another magnificent feast.

July 5^th – exploring the outdoors and Whitehorse

The gold find that sparked the Klondike gold rush.

Living in the Yukon is not for the faint of heart. Those who stick it out are outdoorsy and nature loving. Many are hunters who explore the sites in various ways, including on quad vehicles. We headed out with Arthur to explore above the tree line on his quads. Ummmmm…what? Passing through abandoned mine fields, old claims, dried up creeks and river beds, we climbed and climbed. There were times I struggled controlling the quad and Meg, as the passenger, hung on for dear life. Eventually arriving at the tree line, we realized the bouncy ride up was worth it. We saw Whitehorse, Lake Labarge and countless mountain tops from where we were. The view was great and we were the only ones up there. Riding down was a lot easier than riding up.

July 6^th – heading home

Our time in the Yukon was coming to an end. Another hike, and farewells took us to the airport where we boarded our Air North flight back to Victoria. This was our first trip to the Yukon, we both hope it will not be our last. The great vastness of the land, the warmth of the people, the history and the culture make it unique. It is an exceptional part of Canada, one that every Canadian should visit.

Thanks for reading.

Feel free to leave comments or contact us by the link above.

Cam and Meg

England – Spring 2025

We were off again on April 1^st, and that was no April Fool’s joke! A ferry ride from Vancouver Island to Vancouver and an overnight stay with my Mom before hopping a flight across the pond to Heathrow. The revised timings of our flights was a bit harrowing.

Arriving at YVR Airport on Time but the Connection is late…

The SkyTrain took us to Vancouver’s airport in good time and we settled into the lounge to relax before our first flight. A message informed us our Vancouver to Calgary flight was delayed by 25 minutes due to the crew coming in late from another flight. This would make the connection time only 48 minutes. Speaking with WestJet ground staff, they informed me there were 18 other passengers heading to Heathrow on our flight. The timing was tight, but doable.

As is often the case, things did not go to plan and the incoming crew arrived even later than planned, but not too late. As we landed, the “welcome to Calgary” announcement on the plane included the Heathrow bound plane was boarding and passengers were to immediately to go to the gate. Naturally, the gate was on the other side of the airport, at least 15 minutes away.

Neither of us wanted to do an OJ Simpson run through the airport, so we briskly walked. It turned out we were the last two people to board the aircraft and as we approached the gate, we heard a “Absolute final call for Miller, party of two, the gates are now closing”. I’m not sure how serious they were as we had to wait on the jetway to board the aircraft as many other people were in front of us, likely those on our connecting flight. We both chose to use the facilities in the airport. They are much nicer in the airport vs the plane, just trust me on that one.

Our Seat Companion – a Parent with a Baby…

On the plane, we walked down the aisle. Our two empty seats in a row of three awaited us. We had selected a middle and window so we were beside each other for the overnight flight. Seated in the aisle seat of our row was the one passenger no one wants next to them. A parent with a babe in arms. I thought, eight hours in the air, overnight with a baby next to me, how much sleep would I get?

Settling in, the flight crew began closing overhead bins and then a crew member came up to the parent and said they had a whole row toward the back of the aircraft and offered to move the parent, baby and the spouse who was on the other side of the aisle. What a stroke of luck. I enquired if I could leave the aircraft to buy a lottery ticket but they said no. In the end, we had a row to ourselves and quickly spread out over the now empty middle seat on a fully packed airplane.

Arriving in England (we can read ALL the signs!)

Our flight was uneventful and landed on time. Customs and Immigration were straightforward, our Electronic Arrival Authorization (ETA’s) were in order. At the baggage carousel despite our bags likely being the last to load, they were also almost the last to come off. The Wi-Fi at Heathrow allowed us to look at options to get to Bristol, and coach was the simplest. WestJet uses Terminal 4, and the coaches depart at the Terminal 2/3 coach park. To get between the terminals there is a complementary train that runs frequently, however it was not quite quick enough to get the early coach.

We were faced with the option of a very expensive coach in 15 minutes, or wait for an hour for one that was 60% less. Since we needed lunch and a SIM card, we decided to do both at Heathrow. The savings on bus fare more than offset the cost of lunch and our AirHub ESIM. The bus ride was comfortable and had decent WiFi on the bus. We both managed to sleep a bit during the two-hour ride.

Arrival in Bristol

Arriving in Bristol, we passed by our hotel enroute to the bus station. Our impressions of the town as we drove in, despite the sunshine, was “gritty”. There seemed to be a number of places that could be spruced up and we noticed homeless people about. The 15-minute walk to the hotel took us through Cabot Circus, a major downtown shopping mall. All the usual stores one would see in any North American mall were represented.

We had found a restaurant we wanted to try for dinner, unfortunately when we arrived, it was closed with a sign saying they were sold out of food for the day. Luckily, this being England, there were a plethora of Public Houses around. Settling on the ‘Volunteer’, a local pub, we debated which beverage to have. Despite there being a description of all drinks on tap, it was difficult. Samples were offered and, after trying three of the local beers, I settled on an ale and Meg chose a cider. The Volunteer is what we look for when selected a venue. It is not a tourist pub and a bit out of the way. We were certainly the only people with accents. The food was excellent and most tables were having meals and lively conversations.

Given it had been a long day/night with an eight-hour time change, we called it a day.

Day II in Bristol

We were up and off to find breakfast, which we decided to have at St. Nicholas Market. Arriving at 9AM, there were some shops that were just opening and some that were already serving breakfast. Settling on “Crafty Beans”, we ordered an English Breakfast sandwich. It was freshly made, served piping hot and would hold us until lunch.

Our tour guide dressed as an Air Raid Warden, complete with a Brodie Helmet.

Using a new App (GPSMyCity), we started a self-guided walking tour from the market. Having seen a number of the sites on the tour, we headed back to the market to join our 11AM organized excursion of Bristol and the Air Raid Shelter. This tour, close to two hours, took us through some of the early history of the area, battles and figures that shaped the area. Then the highlight, the Air Raid Shelter. The tour guide was a one man show in this regard. He is fighting to have it declared a historic site and has spent countless hours sprucing it up.

A Glimpse of the Blitz

Heading down the many stairs, we learned what it was like during the Blitz. From queueing for a spot at the shelter, as not everyone could get in, to how long the bombings took place. Learning about incendiary bombs as well as percussion bombs and how the population took it all in stride. Along the walls were numerous period posters, including the classic “Keep Calm and Carry On”. I cannot imagine the terror of being bombed night after night. Bristol was the 6^th hardest hit city during the war. There is an aircraft factory in the region and the other side bombed the cities around it to weaken morale.

An interesting add on to the tour was the rock and roll section. A number of historic bands played at the Corn Market Hall in Bristol including the Rolling Stones, the WHO, Muddy Waters and others. It was quite the place in the 60’s. A bit of humour is that there is now a rock and fossil store where the stage used to be. I wonder how Mick Jagger feels about that?

Based on a recommendation of our guide, we lunched at the Market and then headed out on our own walking tour. The GPSMycity App allows you to create your own walks and incorporates GPS so you are less likely to get lost. On our tour we saw a famous Banksey piece of street art – Well Hung Lover.

Dinner was a picnic in the park overlooking the river at sunset.

Travelling to our Football Match

The walk to the train station was easy, as was boarding our train. We tried “Split Train” ticketing and it worked well, saving us a considerable amount of money. What it entailed was buying three tickets to get from A to B. We did not need to change trains, simply seats. There is a whole science behind it and certain apps will do this for a fee. It is 100% legal and based on dynamic pricing of seats on certain legs of the journey.

Arriving at the Birmingham airport, we picked up our rental car and headed to our hotel. Arriving at 11:30, we did not think we could check in, but owner said it was not a problem. We dropped our suitcases and then headed for a snack before walking to The Hawthorns to see West Bromwich Albion play. Kick Off was 12:30, vs the normal 3 PM, so it was a bit tight to get through the crowds. This time our seats were two rows off the pitch at what would be the blue line in a hockey rink. This close to the field, we could not only see the expressions on the players faces, but also hear what they were saying when they were near us. Of course, when they were on the other side of the field, we were not as fortunate.

The Other Side Scores 🙁

The view from our seats – two rows off the pitch

Around the 30-minute mark of the first half, Sunderland was awarded a free kick right in front of us. A right footed kick, that had the perfect spin, managed to get in under the top right corner to give them the lead. As it turned out, that was the only goal of the game as the Baggies could not find the back of the net, despite playing well. That 1 – nil score made me feel jinxed. I’ve been to three games at the Hawthorns and have yet to a West Brom goal.

When the game ended, we headed back to the hotel for a rest and a dinner out.

The Midlands – Day IV

Being a Sunday, not everything was open, however with a car, our options were more than they may have been otherwise. Scouring a map and reading about various places, Bridgnorth is the place we settled on to explore. A pleasant 45-minute drive took us to another market town that was bustling on a brilliantly sunny day. It turns out there was a classic tractor show and shine and many local enthusiasts were out to look at these historic machines. Not really being our thing, we headed to the castle and gardens.

While there, we saw a steam engine chugging along at the local station and decided to take a look. The train is used most weekends and we were able to have a ride in the engine. This coal-fired engine, dating from 1930, was certainly interesting. Fully restored to its past glory, it rattled and rumbled along, making hissing noises as steam escaped after driving pistons up and down. Since this was England, they had no issues with shovelling coal into the fire box of the train while we were in the cab driving along the tracks. There were only four of us in the cab, the driver, fireman, Meg and I (it was quite a tight fit!) The fireman opened the furnace and shovelled in coal to keep the fire hot. You certainly knew when the furnace door was opened.

Heading back, a quiet dinner and evening walk concluded our day.

Midlands Day V – Black Country Living Museum

One of the things we had hoped to do this trip was to see the Black Country Living Museum (BCLM). It is a period museum with numerous buildings set in various times from 1850 – 1960. You know you are getting older when you see things in a museum that your parents had in your home. The staff, or guides, are also dressed for the time they are representing. Everything was really well done. There were restaurants serving different foods and at least two pubs serving adult beverages. We could not have asked for a better day weather wise, full sun and +16C with no wind. Enthralled with the museum, we ended up spending six hours there.

The town as it may have looked in the 1940’s

Our highlight exhibit was the mine. Early in the morning we had visited the “shaft” where there were piles of coal. The coal would have been hauled up from the bottom of the mine where it would be sorted. BCLM has done a recreation of a surface mine, but that still goes down 30’. Groups of 25 take part in the tour and hard hats are required. The clearance is only 1.3 Meters in some places so there was lots of ducking under beams. Inside the mine were mannequins who explained the various roles and methods of mining the coal.

The Dangers of Coal Mining

It was dirty work and dangerous. Tunnelling took place which had miners dig out under the coal seam using supports to keep the coal from collapsing. Then, when the time was right, the supports were removed and the large overhang of coal came down. Unfortunately, sometimes the supports failed and miners were crushed. The tunnelling enabled larger pieces of coal to be mined which were more valuable than small pieces.

A functioning longboat that was used to haul coal. It was also used in the hit show ‘Peaky Blinders’

The Midlands were the heart of the Industrial Revolution. Conditions were terrible and average life span, according to one guide, was 17 ½. The air was foul with coal dust. It was said the area was black by day and red by night. The black would be the coal dust blocking out the sun. At night, the red was from the fires that everyone had going. Coal was used to run machines, heat homes, cook, fire blacksmith shops and more. As coal, iron-ore and limestone were all readily available, everything was done in this area. In addition to being called the Midlands, the area is often referred to as the Black County.

As we finished our tour, we gave thanks for the world we live in today and for those who forged the society of yesteryear to make the advancements now taken for granted.

Midlands Day VI – Travel to Morocco – A New Adventure for Us

Today was a travel day to Morrocco, with an afternoon flight. As the airport was an hour away and our need to be there by 12:30, we were limited as to our options of what we could do. In the end we settled on a hike at a nearby National Nature Reserve, Wren’s Nest. It was in this area that limestone was mined from open quarries and underground mines back in the day. There is nothing left of the mining operations, just a nice walk. There are a lot of fossils about, however we did not search for any.

Arriving at the airport, this was our first every EasyJet flight. The instructions indicated bag drop would open at 13:30 for our 15:30 flight. They also said get to the airport at least two hours before the flight. Arriving at 12:30, three hours before our flight, there was nothing we could do until 13:30. EasyJet is a discount carrier and there are no staff until the appointed time. So, we waited in line with a number of other people to tag our bags and head through security. It was a jovial atmosphere as most of the people were going on holiday (vacation to North Americans).

We boarded our flight and concluded this trip to England. Our plans, although not fixed, have us returning soon, if for nothing else but to hopefully see West Bromwich Albion actually score a goal. COYB – Come On You Baggies!

Thanks for reading and please feel free to leave any comments or reach out by email via the contact form above.

Cam and Meg

Panama Canal Part II

Puerto Chapais, Mexico.

This was our first time to Puerto Chapais, which is very close to the Guatemalan border. Rumours swirled around the ship of how dangerous it was due to the cartels and drug running. One passenger told us the MARSEC level, which identifies the port security level, had been raised to Level IV. Well, for starters, the highest MARSEC level is III. I politely nodded and managed to say nothing (out loud anyway). The normal MARSEC level is I. In all my time in the Navy, with very few exceptions, MARSEC I is the only level I’ve seen. While I don’t discount intelligence, I will certainly discount unintelligence.

A beautiful Stained Glass Window in Tapachula

The tours offered by the ship didn’t seem to visit many places and the cruise ship advised there were limited transport options to Tapachula, the nearest town. Puerto Chapais literally had nothing other than a welcome centre and stevedore equipment for container ships. We had been told it was difficult to get a shuttle into town due to the limited number of seats. We thought we were fortunate to get a seat on the shuttle for $10 return. It turned out there were lots of seats. The drive in was about an hour and as we headed into town, the bus passed banana and mango plantations, haciendas and shanty areas. Once in town, we explored a Mexican town that is neither used to nor set up for tourists.

A “Real” Mexican town

This was a great experience and the first time, in all of our times in Mexico, we were able to see a “real” Mexican town. There were stores of all types, selling everything. Numerous street food stalls, clothing stores, hardware, cell phones, you name it. People going about their daily business. Colectivos picking up and dropping off people, parents herding little ones along, children in school uniforms going to school. And us, taking it all in.

The local museum was open and we wandered through. It would not rival a Smithsonian and there were basically no signs in English. There were a number of neat artifacts. Lunch was empanadas, made right before our eyes, in a hole in the wall restaurant. When I say “hole in the wall”, it was literally a hole in the wall! Those empanadas were so good! It was a bit tricky to order as no English was spoken. Not a single word. In the end, I held out my money, and said “dos” or two. The grandma who was running the operation, took twenty pesos and prepared two “pollo” or chicken empanadas, covered in a salad and cheese. Eating these on a park bench with a drink made me feel like a local and filled me up.

Doing some more exploring and snacking, the time came for the return journey to the ship. On our next visit, we might consider visiting the Aztec ruins which, we heard from other passengers, were being restored and, although not the best ruins, were still interesting.

Huatulco, Mexico

This was our first visit to Huatulco, our fall stop here had been cancelled due to a storm. The area is marketed as having nine bays and beaches at every bay. We headed ashore with no plan. The first few offered tours were not appealing and somehow, we ended up in a dive shop. We were offered a snorkel tour for $300, then $200. It was a private tour and would take us to five bays with snorkeling at each if we wanted as well as beach time. It would have us back at 3PM and, after checking out another tour operator, we booked it.

Snorkelling in Clear Blue Water

We had our own boat, snorkel gear and headed out. Unfortunately, our captain could not speak English. We managed to communicate and he pointed out a number of interesting things. The snorkel stops were wonderful and the fish we saw were colourful. The beaches were vast with very few other people on them. There was a strong current/undertow, so you should be able to swim well, fins certainly helped. After about 3 ½ hours we had had enough and returned to the ship. On our way back, the captain abruptly stopped the boat and pointed to a sea turtle. This magnificent creature was simply swimming in the ocean, going about his (or her) business. The captain stopped the boat and explained he was not allowed to follow the turtle. We floated along and the turtle kept going on its way, eventually diving down out of sight.

In our boat between dives. The beaches are amazing.

Once back in town, we took a taxi into downtown for lunch, Mexican street food is so much better than ship’s food, even though the latter is free. Our tour guide had recommended a taco stand in town and it did not disappoint. We then wandered around, taking in the sights and headed back to the ship. It turns out there were only two other passengers after us to return to the ship so we certainly maximized our time in Huatulco.

Puerto Vallarta, Mexico

We returned, again to Puerto Vallarta, or PV. This was our third visit in the past six-months. We weren’t sure what to do given the limited time we had during our cruise ship stop. One thing we noticed was the cooler weather. It was about 5C cooler with no humidity which was a welcome relief from the intense heat of Costa Rica and Panama.

We spent our first half hour ashore “running the gauntlet” of time shares, souvenir shops, taxi touts and more. The cruise ship terminal is structured so you have to pass each stall. The easy exits are for crew only, passengers are politely pointed to the maze of hawkers. Once outside, we headed for a local grocery store called Chedraui. This is a full-size grocery store and it seemed better to shop here at a local store versus the Walmart. Most people head to the Walmart as it is right across the road from the terminal, however you have to cross 10 lanes of traffic. That takes a fair amount of time and, once on the other side, you have the massive parking lot to traverse. Chedraui had everything we wanted including a tour organizer that offered better prices than in town.

Travel like a local on a local bus

We then headed into town on the local bus for 20 Pesos. Arriving at the south end of town, we wandered aimlessly, remembering the Romantic Zone is just too touristy for us. Eventually we arrived at a taco place we like and had a lunch of street tacos. Lunch perked us up, however, there was still nothing we wanted to do.

The one thing that appealed to us, which we have not done before, was to take a tour to San Sebastian. Unfortunately, this tour only ran three days a week on Mon, Wed and Fri. and we arrived on a Saturday. The tour also leaves at 9AM and is about 8 hours long with 90 minutes of travel each way. Arriving back at 5PM would have had us miss the cruise ship. For our next cruise ship visit to PV, if we remember, we will try and see if we can arrange a tour that works with our cruise ship.

International Wine Tasting On Board

International Wine Tasting – a great way to spend a day at sea!

Once onboard the ship, we settled in for our two sea days as we approached LA. On our last sea day, we signed up for a wine tasting. It was the best one we have ever experienced on a cruise ship. There were six countries represented, with a red and white from each country. The capacity was limited to 30 people and you wandered from station to station trying the wines as you wished. The pours were “honest” and in the span of an hour, we think we each had the equivalent of a full bottle of wine. When we tried a wine we did not like, we simply dumped it in the dumping bin.

Grey rainy skies and cool temperatures greeted us when we arrived in LA. Our plan had been to store our luggage and wander Long Beach, but that is a thing for sunnier days. In the end, we simply headed to the airport and returned home.

Two cruises, totalling 23 days was in the books. We were refreshed and ready for our next adventure.

Thanks for reading and please feel free to leave any comments or reach out by email via the contact form above.

Cam and Meg

Panama Canal Cruise Part I

Changing Cruise Ships

As our first cruise ended, we took our time leaving the MSC Seaside. Once ashore, we hung around the Miami cruise terminal, taking advantage of the wi-fi. When we were ready to leave, we headed to to the Fort Lauderdale cruise terminal. Enrolee, we stopped at Total Wine to pick up some Prosecco for our 16-day Panama Canal cruise. Boarding of the Coral Princess was delayed as it was reported to have an outbreak of Norovirus and additional cleaning/sanitization measures were in effect. Great.

Once onboard, we noticed a change from the MSC Seaside. The Coral Princess was showing her age. Most of the newer ships have a “bigger is better” attitude, with grand foyers, high ceilings and warmer colours. The ship was functional and we were certainly going to enjoy ourselves for the next 16 days.

The buffet was no longer ‘serve-yourself’ due to the health scare. Staff would serve you. They were at the buffet entrances to make sure everyone washed their hands. There were regular announcements encouraging people to use their own bathrooms and follow hygiene protocol.

Are Elevators Really that Hard to Use?

Then we had the challenges with the elevators. I honestly wonder if any of the passengers have actually used elevators before this cruise. From asking if the lift is going up or down. Hmmm, let’s see, you pushed the up (or down) button, the arrow in front of the elevator indicates up or down – use your visual cues people. You do need to think a bit on the lifts as not all of them go to all floors.

An example is the mid-ship elevators, which only go down to deck 7. This means, if you want to eat in one of the restaurants on deck 5, you either have to take the stairs down the remaining two floors, or take the forward or aft elevators and walk back. Of course, if you are mobility challenged, you need to take the lift all the way to your destination. However, if you a physically able, you could walk two flights of stairs.

It seems the thought of walking two flights of stairs was the equivalent of high treason for some people. At one point, a couple was arguing about getting on the elevator as it did not go to the fifth floor. How would they get from the seventh to fifth floor? They were saying “this is a terrible ship, and so confusing”. I was in the elevator with the door open and waiting for them and then…the doors closed. I’m not sure how long they argued for after that. The fact I pushed the “door close” button may have had something to do with the door closing, just saying.

Starting off with Sea Days

The first two days were sea days. The routine was a bit different on this ship. For starters, being in our early 60’s, we brought the average down. Yup, we were some of the young’uns onboard. Last week, on MSC, we did not notice a single wheelchair, scooter or mobility aid. This week, there were many scooters et al. It is inspiring to see people, who have trouble covering distances, still travelling and seeing the world. We hope to be doing trips like this when we are much older. So, with a large number of older guests, most seemed to like to sleep in and we didn’t really notice anyone around until close to 9 AM. Thus we had our choice of lounge chairs, breakfast buffet seating spots, etc.

For dinner, we managed to snag a 7:20 dining time, which for us, is ideal. There was an overwhelming demand for the 5PM dining time, likely due to the overall age of the passengers and their nationality. Of the almost 1,800 guests, 1,100 were from the US, close to 300 from Canada with various European countries and Mexico making up the balance. Our table was in the rear of the main dining room (MDR) and by a window. Since we were eating just after sunset, the window was not really a great bonus.

Back to Aruba

Our first port of call was Aruba and we took the public bus, called the “AruBus” to Arashi beach, where we met up with some new friends from Oregon. Hanging out in a public beach hut for shade, we snorkeled, read, chilled and sampled some Mojitos. All with the brilliant Aruban sunshine and Caribbean ocean as our backdrop. Tickets for the AruBus can be had at the main station, $5 US for a return trip pass, or $15 for an all-day pass. Be aware the ticket sales only go from 6 AM – 1:30 PM. You can always pay cash onboard, although it costs a bit more. The driver will make change, but change is given in local currency. All times and prices current as of March 2025.

One of the nice things about Princess is the laundromats on board. It’s no secret, having your laundry done in a hotel is very expensive. The cost to do it on a cruise ship is equally expensive. On a 16-day cruise, you’ll likely need to do laundry, unless you take all the clothes you own. There are washing machines on passenger decks and it makes it easy to keep up with your laundry for minimal costs.

Transiting through the Panama Canal

After Aruba, we sailed to the Panama Canal and carried on with our transit. The toll for our cruise ship was just over $330,000 USD. That was included in the cruise ship fare, the Captain did not need to “pass the hat” to gather money for our passage. The rate is a combination of the vessels weight as well as the number of passengers onboard, which for this calculation, includes crew.

Our transit took us through the historic locks and the overall transit is nothing short of impressive. It is even more remarkable when you learn the locks have been operating the same way since 1912, with the same construction. Of course, there are much older locks in various parts of the world still operating. In Canada, the Rideau Canal was completed in 1832. Its aim was to avoid the Great Lakes after the War of 1812 between British North America and the United States . It makes you wonder. Transiting through the locks, there is very little clearance on either side of the ship.

How the Locks Work

Sunset at the Panama Canal – note all the boats at anchor, waiting for their turn

The lock is then flooded, or drained, depending on if the ship is going up or down. The gates are then opened and away you go to the next lock. In all, there are six locks, three up and three down, rising/falling a height of 85’ in each directions. That number can vary slightly depending on tides. The overall transit takes around 10 hours and makes for an incredibly scenic day.

Once the last lock has been exited and the ship has cleared the Bridge of the Americas, the Captain took the vessel alongside Fuerte Amador, Panama, the closest berthing point for Panama City. Although the ship was alongside, no passengers were allowed to leave until the next morning.

Panama City – Another Capital City Visited

There were a number of tours in and around Panama, however we decided to head out on our own. The hope was to get a tour of the old city. There were a number of touts offering every type of tour imaginable. We settled on a walking tour of the Mercado, Old City and a drive by the new town. The temperature was forecast at +32C with an extreme UV and humidity warning that made extended time outside seem like not the best idea.

On our drive into town, we passed some “areas” that seemed a bit suspect. When asked about the safety of the neighbourhood, our guide said he would walk around where we were in the daytime, but not the night time. There were two police officers on most street corners and it turns out they will discourage non-locals from wandering off the main street. Our guide lived about 20-minutes from the area we were in and told us his area was a lot safer.

Fresh Local Fruit from the Jungles of Panama

A local vendor selling us some bananas. Her selection of fruit was amazing!

Arriving at the mercado, we could see it was truly local and our guide was correct, there were no tourists there. The bounty of fresh fruit was amazing. Snacking on bananas and drinking fresh juice was so much better than the cruise ship breakfast, and healthier too! There is a lot of history in the town and it is continually developing. We learned that banking is now overtaking the canal as the main industry, although the canal is critical for bringing in hard currency. While Panama has its own currency, the US dollar is the currency of all transactions.

The architecture of Old Panama City was very colonial, likely from the French influence when they tried to build the canal in the late 1800’s. After our tour, we headed to the Biosphere Museum and learned about the evolutionary history of Panama.

As it was hot and humid, we took an Uber back to the ship and with that, our time in Panama City concluded.

Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Puntarenas is one of the few Pacific side stops in Costa Rica for cruise ships. There’s really not a lot to do in the town. It is a small isthmus with a main road that leads to the mainland. Previously, we took a driving tour that left us uninspired. On this trip, as we left the pier, we met the touts who offered us various tours as we headed to the TI centre. Our goal was a tour of the Island San Lucas, which showed nice beaches and hiking trails. It turns out San Lucas was a former penal colony, similar to Alcatraz. There are tours sometimes, but nothing on the day we were in town. The TI made a number of phone calls and a private tour could be arranged for a cost of $300 US. We were not really that interested and left the TI without a plan.

Back on the street, the touts sensed we had nothing to do. If we wanted to do a local tour, we would have been given a good deal. The tour started at $65, then to $50. At no point did we even try to negotiate. When we continued walking away, the “owner” came and offered us the tour for $40, but only if we agreed not to tell anyone as this was “too low”. We hemmed and hawed for a bit, but remembering our tour last time, we politely declined. Our new plan was to head to the ferry and see where that would take us.

Making Our Own Tour

It was a 20-minute walk to the end of the isthmus where the ferry terminal was located. There, we bought senior’s tickets for the 10AM ferry to the other side. There appeared to be nice beaches there, at least according to our online maps. One hour and 20-minutes later the ferry docked on the other side. There wasn’t much at the ferry landing, but we knew there was a gas station with a convenience store only 500 meters away. At the store, we picked up some drinks and snacks and headed to a beach. There wasn’t much life around and we could not be sure of where we were going, this was certainly not a tourist area. Heading down a dirt road the “Perla Negra”, or Black Pearl, restaurant came into site.

Although no one was in the bar when we walked through, it was certainly gimmicky and geared for tourists. Exiting the other side of the bar were open fields and chairs that lead to another road. Carrying on downhill, we came across a smaller dirt road that eventually led us to a beautiful beach. It was a cove that had soft sand, palm trees, shade and only one person other than us. Unsure if there were crocodiles in the water, we spoke with the lone occupant, who was from Quebec City. He had been swimming and was just about to leave on his motorcycle. We then had the postcard perfect beach to ourselves. Wow.

Our Private Beach

We spent the next three hours there and the time flew by. Between swimming in warm water, listening to the sounds of birds calling, fish jumping and staring up at an incredible blue sky, it was amazing. And we were the only ones there. Shifting our towels twice to follow the shade of our palm trees, we were shocked how quickly our alarm went to catch the ferry back. The ferry ride and walk back to the ship were uneventful. There was free wi-fi at the port and we caught up on emails. As the ship sailed away that evening, we decided, should we find ourselves back in this port, we would do that same thing again.

Thanks for reading, we’ll post part II of The Panama Canal shortly. Please feel free to leave any comments, or reach out by email at the link at the top of the website.

Cam and Meg

A Caribbean Cruise

We started our two cruises by heading to the airport, taking a connector flight from Victoria to Vancouver. We had a four-hour layover, so after clearing US Customs, we found the lounge and started our vacation 

Do Not Try This At Home

This is the first time we have taken a red-eye flight to a cruise. If all goes to plan, we would get to Fort Lauderdale at 8:30 AM, head to the cruise ship terminal and then be on our cruise. If there is a delay, then we have to make our own way to the next port of call. So, we strongly suggest you do not try this at home! It’s really not the best plan; too much can go wrong. Weather delays, lost luggage, airport closures, and 100 other things. It does happen that people miss their ship and have to get to the next port of call, but it is a challenge.

In the end, it went like clockwork and we were at the ship by 10:30. So, if we are saying “don’t do this at home”, why did we do it? Well, it all comes down to dollars and cents. Simply put, a flight the day before was about five times as much. We rolled the dice and came out on top. If we had not, one night hotel, some meals and a flight to Nassau, would have been less than the additional cost of flying a day earlier. But, we can’t stress enough…do not try this at home!

Heading to a New Ship

Once in Fort Lauderdale, we arranged for an Uber and headed to the ship. The drive was uneventful and we both slept for most of it. Boarding the ship was very smooth. Meg had pre-registered us and all they needed was a scan of our passport as well as a photo. The camera they use was an automated one, similar to the many Border Services use at the airport. We were on the ship at 11:00 and headed to the buffet – a true veteran cruiser move.

For those of you who have cruised, going to a new class of ship can be interesting. This voyage combined a new cruise line and obviously a new ship. There were many of the same things, but also some things were completely different, with a very European flair.

Two of the most notable differences were the buffet and main pool located on the lower level of the ship on deck 8, as opposed to being on the top decks. This was very foreign to us and took some getting used to.

New Elevators – a Challenge for Some People

The other major difference was the elevators or lifts. When you press the call button for the elevators, you select the floor you want before you get on. Then the nice machine will tell you which elevator will be going to that floor and it also indicates how long it will be until the elevator arrives. When you enter the elevator, you do not press any buttons. Being trained to press the button when you get in is ingrained. It took a few days not to want to press the button when we got into the elevator. The display indicates what floor you are on and what floor(s) the lift will be stopping on. This also took a bit of getting used to, but after a few days, we absolutely loved it.

This system has dramatically reduced the number of elevator-challenged people from getting on and saying “is this elevator going up (or down)”. Maybe this is not the case, perhaps all of the 5,000 passengers on board are gifted in the use of elevators…nah, who are we kidding.

In all seriousness, the system seems to work well. The announcements are in multiple languages, English is first.

Setting Sail

The cruise departed as scheduled, after everyone had checked in for the safety drill. Dinner that night, and in fact most meals, were better than recent offerings from either Princess or Celebrity. The activities were pretty much the same: trivia, exercise classes such as line dancing, pool sports, etc. The Captain’s address offered some free adult beverages.

One thing we did not like was our dining time, which was assigned to us for 5:30PM. Now this did not mean we ate at 5:30. By the time you get settled and your order is taken, you don’t start eating until 6:10. Your main entrée arrives around 6:30ish. When we asked if we could change to the 7:45 time, the Maitre’d told us there were some 200 people on the waiting list for late dining.

MSC is an Italian line, with a heavy Mediterranean influence. Given so many of the passengers are European, it is not surprising that later dining is preferred.

It’s Better in the Bahamas

We did not start with a sea day, instead we visited Nassau, Bahamas for our first full day. We did not book any excursions and simply walked off the ship to explore. Meg had done some research and found a number of places to check out. Starting with the ‘Queens Staircase’, a series of 66 stairs that were carved out of limestone in the early years of Queen Victoria’s reign. It is a very popular tourist attraction, however we were fortunate to get there during a lull with no other people around. The hoards were only 100 meters behind us, so we took our pictures quickly and carried on.

From the Fort, we wandered around town and explored, trying a local adult beverage on a public beach. We really didn’t find a lot to see or do, and the guidebooks don’t list a ton of things. One thing they do mention, and we did, was the John Wadding Distillery. Being on the Islands, rum is the specialty. A quick seven-minute tour, which really didn’t cover a lot, takes you into the sample room where you could purchase tasters of different aged rums or other drinks.

A Historical British Fort

The stairs take you towards Fort Fincastle, which had a $3 admission. Once inside the Fort, we joined a tour that explained so much about both the fort and community. The way the fort was designed and how things were carved out of limestone allowed for ventilation of the magazine. It was the original air-conditioning and highly effective. The view from the top of the fort was the best you could get in the Bahamas, which makes sense as it is on the highest point.

Not being big rum drinkers, we departed and wandered about. Nassau has a definitive British feel. The King is still the Head of State, similar to Canada. Everyone we met was very pleasant and we left thinking it was a nice place.

Cozumel, Mexico

Our next port was Cozumel, Mexico. We like Mexico. As we wandered ashore, with nothing planned or booked, we met some Touts and settled on a 2-hour snorkel tour on the reef. Cozumel has the second largest reef in the world, after the Great Barrier Reef. The tour was in a glass boat, not just a glass bottom boat, but a completely clear fiberglass/acrylic boat. This allowed for wonderful viewing of the ocean floor as we headed out to the reef.

Once we got to the dive point, we all headed out into the water and looked at fish and coral. The current carried us along and after 30-minutes, we were sheparded back into the boat to return to land. To be honest, the fish viewing was not the best we had ever seen.

Heading to our dive site on a glass boat.

Once back on shore, we wandered around the town and headed to the Mercado where we created our own food tour, based on suggestions we read. The food was fresh, reasonably priced and excellent, what more could you ask for?

As we headed back to the ship, we stopped in for some tequila tasting. Now I (Cam) do not like or drink coffee. Imagine my surprise when I tasted coffee tequila. It was incredibly smooth, to the point of being dangerously good in that it was so easy to drink. Our tasting place was on the main drag and, the prices were, in our opinion, very inflated. We decided to pass on buying any and will look for this product in other stores, just to see if we can get it fairly priced.

Belize

We then had a sea day before arriving at Belize. Our plan was to take a tour of the caves, which we would do by floating on an inner tube. We met a few touts, all of them offering the “best” price. In the end we settled on a tour and headed out. A one-hour drive took us to a touristy trap place where we got tubes, helmets and a briefing. A 20-minute up-hill walk took us to the starting point and we entered the water where we boarded our tubes and floated down the river.

The caves were truly inspiring. The stalagmites and formations were interesting and after about five-minutes of drifting down the river, it was pitch black, except for our headlamps. Our guide had us turn off our lights and we could not see anything. Our tour was about an hour in the caves and when we exited, we carried on down the river in daylight for another 30-minutes. We were back to the ship in good time for departure.

MSC’s Private Island

As we sailed overnight, we headed to MSC’s private island. We were a bit worried about it, thinking it may be similar to Icy Point Strait, which is totally manufactured. Everything has been built on the Island, from the 5,000 planted palm trees to the shrubs. Normally there are places to eat on the island, which are included in your cruise, however on the day we were there, all food venues were closed.

We managed to find two lounge chairs and some shade. Setting up our home for the day, we looked out at the ocean and, between swim breaks, read our books. While there was no food on the island, all the bars were open, however the queues were horrendous, so we passed. While the island was certainly not the highlight of our MSC cruise, the colours of the water, along with the soft sand beaches, made a for a postcard perfect picture.

Winding down

As we left the private island, we returned to Miami. Our impressions of MSC were so favourable we booked another cruise for the spring of 2026. We will head to Europe, MSC’s playground, to visit the Baltics.

Thanks for reading, please feel free to leave comments or reach out be email on the links below.

French Adventures and Touring – Part I

Friday November 8, 2024

Crossing a bridge from Spain into France, we did not have to clear customs. We were coming over land within the European Union. Leaving our commuter train, we walked 200 metres to the Henday train station. Our Henday Spain to Bordeaux France train was showing on time, departing in one-hour. We found a park bench and had our picnic lunch in the November noon time sun.

The French train left right on time and we arrived in Bordeaux as scheduled. From the train station we took the local tram and then walked five-minutes to our new apartment. After checking-in, we visited the local market and picked up some supplies for the next few days.

Moroccan food in France…why not?

As we were wandering, we passed a Moroccan restaurant which sounded appetizing for dinner. At our apartment, we checked it out. Despite having good reviews and scores, the last two reviews commented on seeing a mouse. Fortunately, there was another Moroccan restaurant nearby that actually had better reviews. This was a place that you did not leave hungry.

The restaurant was a prix-fixe. Your only choice was the main course. The options were many. Just about every tagine you could imagine, from lamb to kofta, to veggie. Once you chose your main, you could go up to the appetizer table. There were at least 30 appies. Salads, hummus, olives, breads, and so much more. One trip to this appie bar was not enough for either of us. The waiter watched as we, along with everyone else, made multiple trips to the salad bar. Once it appeared we were done with salads, our main courses came.

There were delicious and filling. For me, there’s something about slow cooked tagines, with dried fruit, nuts, spices, herbs and meat that is irresistible. Finishing our mains, we headed to the desert table. Oh my. There were at least 40 different deserts as well as cut up fresh fruit. How could you try all of them? I settled on a number of them as well as baklava. We certainly left full and satisfied.

Saturday November 9, 2024

We started with an early morning walk around Bordeaux. Not much was open at 9AM. Even most coffee shops were closed. We had the place almost to ourselves. In the afternoon, we took a wine tasting excursion to Saint Emillion.

Over looking the wine region of St. Emillion.

Ahhhh, wine in France. It is almost a religion. In fact, during the Middle Ages, we learned Abbey’s had to welcome pilgrims with wine. Maybe that makes up for the lack of plumbing  We headed out on our tour and drove the hour to St. Emillion. There, we had tour of the town and then some time on our own. It seemed logical to do a tasting on our own which we did.

Then the tour took us to an estate where we toured the facilities and learned about their process. Then…you guessed it…we did a wine tasting on the estate. We sampled two of their house made wines.

This tour was really well done. It was put on by the Bordeaux tourist centre. As a half day tour (13:30 – 18:30) it was great time wise and you really didn’t need much more. Returning home, we picked up some take-away food and ate a relaxing meal in our apartment.

Sunday November 10, 2024

Enjoying wine, overlooking Bordeaux. Enjoying is the key!

Fresh off our wine tour, we decided to learn more about this delightful drink. We headed over to the Cite du Vin centre. It is advertised as a place where you can “Embark on an interactive and sensory experience”. They were accurate on that. We spent over four hours there (the suggested time is one hour). There were displays on grapes, the wine regions of France as well as other wine areas. They highlighted food and wine pairing. Displays on the history of wine, from the Pharos to the Middle Ages to today. The audio guide was in various languages, so we understood everything. At the end you travelled up to the eighth floor where you had a tasting of a wine of your choice enjoyed with a panoramic view of the historic city of Bordeaux and the river.

Dinner that night was a local restaurant that we found online, despite being the off-season, reservations were essential. As we arrived, we noticed the sign out front said ‘complete’ (full in English). We had a scrumptious three course meal that left us very full. Walking back to our apartment, under a ¼ moon, we were certainly enjoying our time in Bordeaux.

Monday November 11, 2024

We marked today with reflection of what November 11^th means. About half of the business were closed today. Bordeaux, like all of France was occupied during the war. After liberation, things started to return to normal, including the production of wine.

We then headed to the river to take a scenic cruise along the Garonne River. Being France, the cruise came with a glass of wine, which was most welcome on a cool windy day. Sailing down river towards the Atlantic Ocean, we learned about the buildings, ships and history of the city. The view from the water was quite different than the shore and we enjoyed our tour.

We spent the rest of the day getting ready for our travel to Tours, about two hours away by train.

Tuesday November 12, 2024

We went for a walk in the morning and then we returned to our apartment. The host arrived at 11 and we talked for about 10 minutes and then headed to the train. After the five-minute walk to the tram station, we saw a tram pull up, which was good timing. The tram took us to the train station and, after struggling with ramps, underground passages et al, found our coach. We did not pay to reserve seats, so in the morning, we were assigned seats in a quad group. While we both had windows, we were facing each other. That meant one of us faced backwards.

As I was tired, Meg took the view seat and I ended up falling asleep during a podcast 

Friday November 15, 2024

The Loire Valley is known for its Chateaus’. There are too many to visit without being “Chateau-ed out”. Reading about the choices, we decided to visit Charmeanu first. It is the quasi essential French Chateau. It’s on the river, has the classic arches you see in post cards, large grounds and of course, history.

We had looked at buying tickets online as there was notations on some websites they sell out some times. There are blocks of 70 tickets for sale, every 15-minute has a block. The first block, for 9:45 had 66 tickets left. There were 70 tickets for each block after that until 14:30 when there were only 65 tickets. Considering the time of year, we didn’t see the need to pre book.

As we arrived, we walked down the main street leading to the Chateau and there was not a sole in sight. This made for excellent pictures. Given that there would likely be more people later in the day, we raced through the Chateau to get pictures without others in the background. As we finished our first pass of the Chateau, a tour bus pulled up and there were a few more people about.

Every Chateau has an in-depth history

Taking an in-depth look, we discovered and learned a lot. This Chateau, which is on the river, played a essential role during WWII. The river was the line of demarcation between Vichy and Free France. The Resistance used the Grand Hall of Chateau, which was an enclosed bridge that crossed the river, as a way of moving equipment across. Of course, this had risks and some were caught.

The bridge that was used for banquets in the 1700’s and to assist the Resistance during the war

During Great War, the Chateau’s owner, at his own cost, converted the Grand Hall to a hospital. There, the injured were treated and convalesced. By the end of the war, some 2,600 soldiers had been treated there.

There were a number of paintings and tapestries. Most of these were originals and, surprisingly, they were, for the most part, not behind glass. Some of the tapestries had seen better days, however being 300 – 800 years old, that is understandable. Tapestries were mobile art back in the day. When the Royal court moved, the tapestries moved with them. They would then be hung up on the wall of the temporary lodging, be it a Chateau or other suitable place. Then, when the group moved on, they were taken down, packed in cabinets, and moved to the next location.

The Chateau also had vines in various places. This is France of course and that means wine. Today there is still a small winery on the grounds. As any good winery would have it, they offered tastings. The tasting were done in the cave, which has been storing wine since the 1600’s. All three of the selections, rose, white and red were wonderful.

Saturday November 16, 2024

Today was a planned down day. Laundry, walking, talking and taking it easy were the aims of today. Window shopping as well as visiting stores to take in the local scene. A long walk along the river gave us the view of the Loire that great.

Sunday November 17, 2024

Our plan for today was to visit Amboise Chateau, the local chateau. This residence is not actually on the water, it’s a bit up from the river. The elevated height gives it a commanding view of the river in both directions. All the better for collecting tolls back in the day. Remember, there are only two things that are certain in life, taxes being one of them. As we bought our tickets, we asked the clerk how busy the Chateau was. He told us that he had only sold six other tickets that morning.

As we entered the Chateau, the ‘Keep’ or entry room, had a roaring fire going. This was very welcome as it was an unseasonably cold day with clouds. The Chateau was very well done, and although it was the smallest of the three grounds we visited in the Lorie valley, it was charming. All of the rooms we visited were done up in period. There was furniture and displays. We were provided with an iPad that allowed you to virtually see the room as it was in either the 1500’s or 1800’s, depending on which room.

Technology meets history with interactive iPads.

Once inside the room, with the iPad activated, there were characters who provided further information on the meaning of the room. Back in the day, the Chateau owner held meetings, banquets, et al. Of course, no one wanted to be outdone, so the banquets were grand affairs.

On the exterior terraces, we were fortunate enough to get a burst of sun for some pictures. In the distance we noted an open-air market, which we thought would be a good place for lunch. Heading down the equivalent of about five or six flights of stairs, we were back into the city.

Meg with the Chateau Amboise in the background

Once outside, we headed home for to warm up and then off to the market. Similar to other markets in France, this one ended at 13:00, which was the time we arrived. There were still some merchants selling, but most were packing up. Despite this, we managed to get some treats and vin-a-chaud to warm us up.

For dinner, we disagreed on where to eat. In the end we decided to have a tagine as it was still cold. Regrettably, despite the restaurant’s positive reviews, this was likely the worst meal we had. Not only in France, but on our entire trip. Bland chicken with about 40 olives and one small piece of potato. We skipped desert and headed home, knowing you can’t always hit a home run.

Monday November 18, 2024

I headed out at 8 AM to find some baked goods for our breakfast. Similar to the restaurants, most bakeries were closed on Monday. I passed one that was open, however, based on reviews, I had been trying to avoid it. After walking around the small town for 20-minutes, I gave up and went to the poorly rated one.

For the record, this bakery was rated 2.4/5 on Google, which is pretty low. Reading the comments, most people said the food and pastries were good, but the service was horrible. The reviews were 100% accurate. I would call the middle-aged lady who was working there “Grumpy-puss”. She was so dour. I purchased our pain-au-raisins and bolted.

We headed off for Chateau Chambord, the largest chateau in the region. The drive was about 55-minutes on pleasant rural French roads, with very little traffic. Similar to other Chateaus’, we pretty much had the place to ourselves. While there were people around, most times, if you waited a minute or so, you could have the room to yourself.

We spent 3 ½ hours touring the Chateau. There were a number of highlights. The double helix staircase in the centre of the chateau was interesting. To truly see it work, Meg went up one set of stairs and I went up the other. There were windows every few steps and we waved at each other as we climbed up the levels.

Art is alway appreciated in France

Another highlight was two paintings by Botticelli. Now I do not profess to be an expert on art, nor do I know “who’s who” in the art world. That said, both paintings were of the Virgin Mary holding a young Jesus, who was reaching out to a young John the Baptist. They didn’t do it for me, however I can say I’ve seen them.

We returned to Amboise, where we warmed up our pizza we had bought the night before. Since most places were closed on Monday, we ordered a takeaway pie night before. The pizza warmed up was amazing. We could only imagine how heavenly it would have been had we eaten it fresh. It was one of the best thin crust pizzas’ I’ve ever eaten.

Fortunately, we ordered a large pizza, and that, along with fresh baguette with cheese, was a great dinner that evening. I don’t think I needed to mention the French wine… And that, was our time in Amboise. A delightful town, however heavily geared towards tourists.

Thanks for reading, feel free to leave any comments or reach out through the contact page below.

Spain Part II

Saturday November 2^nd, 2024

Travelling by bus from Pamplona to Bilboa, we had to change buses in San Sebastian. The bus terminal there is total chaos, but in an organized way. Buses pull in and passengers get off. Within 15 minutes, a new load of passengers gets on and the bus takes off. As we travelled along the highway, I managed to get some work done and Meg looked out the window.

Arriving in Bilboa, we walked the 10 minutes to our hotel and were happy with the room assignment. A large room with two large bay windows overlooking a park and the theater. Exploring on foot, we wandered along the river to the Guggenheim Museum and found “The Spider”. For those who are unaware, there are a number of huge spider statues throughout the world. Some are permanent and some are rotating. We’ve seen three of the permanent ones. Ottawa, Tokyo and now Bilboa. There is one in Doha, Qatar, that we somehow missed when we were there in January. I guess it’s a reason to go back.

Needing a break from restaurants, crowds and noise, we ordered take-away for dinner and ate in our room. Having the window open with warm air flowing in was delightful. We listened to the music from the park and the general happiness of the warm night. It was certainly not gourmet, but it was just what we needed.

Sunday November 3^rd, 2024

Bilboa was a hold out during the Civil war and some of the fighting took place on “the hill”. There is a funicular up the hill and we decided to get to it early. Going up at 8:30, we were the only people in our car. No one got in the way of our selfies! Once at the top, we saw Bilboa from above and watched the city come to life as the sun creeped over the mountains.

After exploring the mountain top, we returned down and found a pastry shop for breakfast. Then we wandered the town and enjoyed the overall atmosphere.

Later in the day, towards sunset, we returned to the funicular and headed back up the mountain to see it during golden hour. It was neat to see the sun fade and all the lights come on.

Monday November 4, 2024

An empty square in San Sebastián at 4 PM – travelling off season has benefits!

We left Bilboa and headed to the famous San Sebastian. While the bus ride was only an hour, we enjoyed travelling along the coast line, seeing numerous villages. Once in San Sebastian, we settled into our apartment and headed out to explore.

We were only a two-minute walk to the boardwalk and beach where we could see the Bay of Biscay, green trees covering the local hills and wonderful architecture.

Tuesday November 5, 2024

Our first full day in San Sebastian and we had lucked out with the weather. The high was forecast at 24C, 7C above normal and not a cloud in the sky. We did a walking tour to learn what about the area and history. This was one of the best walking tours we have ever taken.

Discussions about the Spanish Royal family, the history of the Basques, the Civil war were all intriguing. The Basques have a distinct identity. Not Spanish and not French. They are Basques -and proud of it. During the years of Franco, the culture was repressed and speaking the Basque language was an automatic execution. Things have improved since then.

The Basques have always been excellent sailors. They also know their way around the kitchen, as is evidenced by the great restaurants and pinchos you find on every corner.

When our tour was over, we found some recommended pinchos, away from the tourist area. Then, I headed to the beach for a swim. The water was “refreshing”, but in a good way. It is pretty impressive to be swimming in the Atlantic Ocean on Nov 5^th in northern Spain. While the water was not as warm as I might have liked, I certainly was not the only one swimming.

Wednesday November 6, 2024

We were up early today and after taking pictures of the high tide, headed out on a hike. Urgull

San Sebastián at sunrise – empty beach in early Nov, but still warm enough to swim!

Hill was the highest point and main fortification of San Sebastian back in the 1500’s. There are still cannons, and old walls on the mountain. Climbing up, we got amazing views of the harbour and two of the beaches.

Later in the afternoon, we headed out on another pincho run. This time to a cider house. Basque cider is unique. It’s not carbonated, so they have developed a trick. The bartender took our glasses and held them about 6’ from a huge barrel of cider. Then he opened a small spigot and let the cider come flying out into the glass. Hitting the glass, the cider “foamed” up, giving it a hint of bubbles. The glasses are not filled very high, necessitating frequent visits to the bar where gossip is exchanged. It works for them.

Thursday November 7, 2024

We ventured to Getaria today. It’s a small town, about an hour from San Sebastián. There are local buses that run on a regular schedule between all the cities in the Basque area. We tried to use our Bilbao transit card, but it would not work, despite the web page saying it would.

When we arrived, we headed into the town and were impressed by the huge church. Then we explored the town, which didn’t really have much to it. Deciding to get a better view, we hiked up the local hill where we saw great views. In the distance we could see some of San Sebastian’s buildings as well as the Atlantic Ocean.

Returning down the hill, we stopped for a pastry on the main street and watched life go by. The locals certainly have their routines. Since we did not bring our swimsuits, we were not able to take advantage of the beach and we headed back to San Sebastián.

Friday November 8, 2024

This was our last morning in San Sebastián and I headed out for an early morning walk to the palace and gardens. The city was just waking up and there were the customary lines at coffee and pastry shops. The promenade was busy with early morning walkers and joggers and I found the beach almost totally deserted.

Walking along the beach, I made my way to the gardens. As it was November, there were not really any flowers, mostly grassy lawns with bare earth patches where flowers likely are in season. There were a number of signs about the palace, the Royal Family et al. The building is now a city asset and used for the film festival in September, as well as other official events.

On to France!

We made our way to the local train station and then took a commuter train from San Sebastián to Hendaye France. It was a 35-minute train ride and once we arrived, we found the French train station, only 200 metres away. Our Henday – Bordeaux train was showing on time, departing in one-hour. We found a park bench and had our picnic lunch in the noon time sun.

Our thoughts on Spain, this time…

Several people had told us not to judge Spain based only on Barcelona – which we don’t particularly care for. (Much as Canada shouldn’t be judged based only on Toronto). We are so glad that we took their advice and explored a different area. We would love to return to the Basque country, but there are also so many other areas of Spain to explore. The bucket list only seems to grow!

Thanks for reading. We’ll post about France shortly.

If you have any comments, please feel free to use the form below or send us an email.

Cam and Meg

Spanish Travels Part I

Monday October 21, 2024

Arriving in Madrid, we cleared immigration and retrieved our luggage. We had a taxi arranged to take us to our pension (hotel). Checking in after arriving, we were disappointed to find out how small the room was and even more disappointed to see the size of the bed. It was certainly not a double. False advertising on the web page….grrrrrr.

Leaving our bags in our room, we set out to explore and found neat things here and there. Spain is all about Tapas and Sangria. We wasted no time in finding a bar that served them. Although Madrid is touristy, the area we stayed in was not really a tourist area. There were a lot of locals and we ordered three dishes which turned out to be way too much (Spanish lesson #1 – “raciones” are not tapas size!). Of course there was wine to help it down.

Wandering around the town, we marvelled at the night life and how it seemed to be a party.

Tuesday October 22, 2024

Our pension (hotel) did not provide breakfast, so we headed out to find a local eatery. The coffee everywhere is excellent and the pastries were on par with France. We took a walking tour and learned a lot about the history and people of both Spain and Madrid.

For lunch, we found a new snack, pinchos. These are similar to tapas, but smaller. A tray of eight delicious snacks, with vino tinto, seated outside in an open square, was a delightful lunch.

Wednesday October 23, 2024

Our tour guide from the previous day suggested the nearby city of Toledo as a place to visit for a day trip. There are coaches running as often as every 15 minutes depending on the time of day. You just buy a ticket and get in line. When there’s room, you get on.

The drive is about an hour and once in town, we took a taxi to the centro. It was about a 30-minute walk, but it was all uphill, so a taxi made sense to us. Once there, we found a “jamon” place. There were only about 75 of them to choose from.

Jamon, of course, is ham in English. It is an art form here in Spain. The various jamon places will finely shave the jamon and put it on a very fresh baguette or bun. You can request cheese as well. Interestingly, I never saw any mustard offered. That’s fine for me as I have a minor intolerance to mustard, but I’m sure many folks would have wanted it. The jamon was wonderful and did not need any accompaniments, other than cheese.

Touring Toledo

Another walking tour followed, where we learned about the history of Toledo. There were battles, attacks and history. Toledo became the capital at one time, only to lose that title a few years later to Madrid.

The view from the top of the Church Spires in Toledo

When the tour was over, we doubled back to the Jesuit church where we were able to climb up the bell tower. It was a long climb but we were rewarded with stunning views of the city and countryside. Knowing there would be a queue for the bus back to Madrid, we decided to have a late lunch/early dinner in a traditional restaurant. The owner was gracious and our three-course meal was accompanied with local Rioja wine.

With our late lunch finished, we wandered the town and marveled at the similarities to Sienna Italy. In Sienna, tourists, mostly from Florence, flock to town for the day. Inside the city walls, it becomes almost too crowded. Toledo was not really different and the non-stop buses from Madrid validated that. We certainly enjoyed the town more once most day-trippers had fled. If we were to come back, we would likely spend a few nights in Toledo, and perhaps day-trip into Madrid.

Interestingly, most of the tourists were Spanish. Our walking tour was the only one, of about 25, that was in English. The rest were in Spanish.

Retuning to Madrid, we wandered around the congested city and reaffirmed our preference for smaller, quainter cities.

Thursday October 24, 2024

Today was a lighter day, in preparation for our big evening Flamenco show. There are a number of places putting on Flamenco shows. Each claims to be the most authentic. We chose the one we went to on reviews and ratings.

We were given a choice of drink at the show. Being in Spain, Sangria seemed like a natural choice. We were then led downstairs to a three-row theater with about 50 chairs. As it was open seating, we sat in the front row. Our guide gave us a 15-minute lecture on the history of Flamenco, the migration of people and instruments. Then the show.

Flamenco Dancers on the stage in the underground theater/cave.

I did not know what to expect. In the end, I was blown away. I might describe it as a cross between figure skating and tap dancing. By the end of the show, the dancers were sweating from their hard work. Their feet moved so fast you could not keep track, and all in time. It was certainly a great show. We then found a nice restaurant and had a relaxing dinner.

Friday October 25, 2024

Leaving Madrid, we took a four-hour bus ride to Logroño, our next Spanish stop. The buses in Spain are highly efficient and very cost friendly. I’m not sure why I picked Logroño as a place to visit, but I’m really glad I did. When we arrived at our apartment, we were blown away by the size, especially after Madrid. The building was close to 200 years old. There were exposed wooden beams and brickwork. We had a small balcony, which overlooked both the Cathedral and the main piazza. That night for dinner, we cooked in the apartment and ate on the balcony, watching the comings and goings and a bit of tomfoolery.

Dinner overlooking the main piazza in Logrono – wonderful.

Saturday October 26^th, 2024

We were not able to find an English walking tour in Logroño, so we improvised. Reading multiple blogs, we crafted a plan and then went to the Tourist Information (TI) centre for further ideas. The TI was most helpful and offered a number of places to visit. The host highlighted the history of wine and suggested a number of wine related places to visit.

Wine in the cellars of Logrono – I’m sure it was great!

We started with the history of wine in Logroño. How the city had so many wineries and did a booming trade in wine was fascinating. As you might expect, a lot of the wine was sold “out the back door” to locals. People have been lining their pockets forever. Exploring more, we saw parks, rivers and parts of the Camino trail. There are a number of hostels in town that cater to pilgrims who do the walk. We were fortunate to be able to walk a portion of the trail.

A Pincho walking tour

As evening came, we prepared for our pincho tour. Normally we try to do an organized tour, but in this case, the tours were all starting at €150 and going up from there – and usually in Spanish. We looked at what you got and decided we would do a “self-tour”. There were a number of suggestions and we simply followed our noses. For just over $60 CAD, we were able to have some amazing pinchos’ accompanied by various wines. This also included a stop at a wine bar where we were able to try a local wine along with some local queso (cheese).

We could not have been happier with our evening. We looked like locals as we bellied up to the bar, pointed to our selection and then added “dos vino tinto”. The host would gather our items as I pulled out my credit card. I then tapped and we munched. The food was so good. Each place had a speciality as well as other choices. You don’t go to one place, but to a few bars. The locals, when they go out, toss money to one person. That is the “orderer” and that person goes and deals with the hostess.

Wall to wall people, all having fun eating, drinking and laughing.

We did our tour on a Saturday night and it was PACKED. We knew it would be busy and we did start early. The picture of the street shows absolute chaos, but in a good way.

Sunday October 27, 2024

After a long pincho night, we wanted to know more about the wine they were serving us. A tour of a winery made sense. Over the years, we have likely toured more than 30 wineries. When I saw there was a winery in the centre of Logroño, I was intrigued. Arizcuren Bodega & Viñedos is a small winery producing 25,000 bottles/year. However, they do it the “old way”. Grapes are brought down from the mountain and processed in the city. This is what they did 100’s of years ago and Arizcuren is trying to bring this back.

A city wine tour – unique but so worth while.

Having been in some of France’s most exclusive wineries, Arizcuren really struck a chord with me. The winery consists of:

Four staff (not a type-o).

True passion.

100% commitment.

Wine tasting at Arizcure winery in Logrono – excellent tour and product.

From crushing grapes, to aging in oak casks, to hand corking each bottle. Yup, hand corking 25,000 bottles/year. In Canada, their wines are only sold in Ontario and Quebec. If you are able to sample them, I don’t think you would be disappointed.

The tour provided generous samples. Due to the popularity, we could only get in for the 10:30 tour. As they say, you can’t drink all day if you don’t start early. Here is their website if you are ever in Logrono. https://www.arizcurenvinos.com/en/ Feeling the effects of the wine after our tour, we walked around and exploring some local parks and monuments.

Later in the evening, we saw a huge bonfire. It is the end of the harvest and a few weeks ago there was competition of floats. The best float is selected and it gets to be burned. I’m not sure what happens to the others. Before the fire, there are fireworks and then, under the supervision of firefighters, the float is torched. To me, it is a bit counter-intuitive to win and have your float burned, but who am I to question local customs?

Monday October 28, 2024

As it was our last day, we took it easy today and decided to visit some of the sites we enjoyed. In the evening, we did a modified pincho run, stopping at only two places, but we were richly rewarded.

Ireland Part II

Monday October 14^th, 2024

After buying Cam’s Aran Island sweater, we took a roundabout route to Donegal. We lunched in the town of Westport and were very glad we did. It had been cloudy all morning. Our weather luck continued to hold as the clouds broke and sun came out as we pulled into town. Finding a park bench by the canal, we ate our picnic in the sunshine and then met a very famous Bear.

Sitting with Paddington Bear in Westport Ireland

Westport had been chosen as one of 23 towns to get a Paddington Bear bench with a statue of Paddington on it. Other towns included Paddington Station in London, Dublin and other centres. The bench, with Paddington sitting on it, had been installed that day. We were among the first to get our picture with him, complete with his marmalade sandwich!

It was then off to our hotel for the night, Locke Eske Castle. This was truly a castle that had been restored and was now a five-star hotel. Pulling up, we were greeted by staff who took our bags, parked our car and showed us to our 500 square foot room. The building, the facilities, the bed, the bathroom were all first rate. We were offered a chance to dine in the main dining room, but we thought the €150/pp price tag was a bit much.

Locke Eske Castle – our home for our Anniversary

Hoping on a bike, I headed down to the lake and toured the local area. We popped into town for dinner and a pint before coming back. The bed was comfortable and we managed to sleep in to 8:00 AM.

Tuesday October 15^th, 2024

Today was our anniversary. We are both so proud of ourselves for making it to 36 years, which was part of the splurge for the castle. Breakfast was a feast to behold. There was a menu with the usual suspects including eggs benedict, made different ways such as traditional, salmon, vegan, etc. To the side was a buffet with a full ham and omelets made to order. As much fresh fruit, cheese and cold cuts as you could imagine were also there. It was a wonderful brunch for our anniversary.

Heading into town, we visited Donegal castle and did a tour. Fascinating history of building, raiding, burning and rebuilding. The town is not really a tourist town and the shops did not sell the typical magnets and t-shirts. We did manage to see a weaver using a 150-year-old loom to make fabric. That store had some of the nicest sweaters I had seen and I was sorry I had already bought one.

When we arrived back at our castle, we did a hike around the grounds and then celebrated our anniversary with a bottle of prosecco, which was followed by another bottle that the hotel provided us for our special day. One of the nicest things about prosecco, at least for us, is that we do not get hangovers! We had a light dinner and then lounged in the “great room” in front of a roaring fire that Cam tended.

Wednesday October 16^th, 2024

Departing the castle after another huge breakfast, we headed into Northern Ireland and the town of Derry or Londonderry. After checking into our BnB, we went to the heart of town and did a walking tour. Learning of the “Troubles”, the medieval walls and the role Derry played in WWII. It was a really well done tour.

Although it seem a bit sacrilegious while in Ireland, we had dinner at the Spaghetti Junction. A highly rated local Italian place that was recommended by our B&B. It did not disappoint. Then we entered a pub where we ended up being kidnapped.

A True Irish Pub

Pedar O’Donnells is a pub that is written up in many books and was recommended by our host. They play live music nightly and tonight it was traditional or “Trad” music. We were lucky enough to find a table for two and after a bit started talking to the couple next to us. They were Scottish and she was there on business. Then, without warning, she got up and left, returning a few minutes later with a beer for everyone and four shots of tequila. Ummmm….what?

We thought it would be rude to say no, so we snapped it back and drank the beer. As we were chatting, the couple on the other side heard our new friends talking. It turns out they were also Scottish. Here’s where we were kidnapped. The new lady did a disappearing act and came back with beers for everyone. Being by far the oldest of the group, we wondered how this would end. The music was louder and everyone was drinking and laughing. A while later, Meg managed to pull a disappearing act and returned with drinks for everyone.

At midnight, we said our goodbyes and managed to escape from our good-natured capturers, all of whom now have a great opinion of Canada. I mentioned earlier that prosecco does not give hangovers. Tequila and beer is a different story…especially at our age.

Thursday October 17^th, 2024

The Derry Girls – youngsters living during the Troubles.

After a slow start, we wandered into town, capturing a picture of the Derry Girls mural. Even though we had never seen the show, it seemed the right thing to do. Touring the Tower Museum, we learned more about the Derry Girls as well as the city. There is a fascinating past.

A quiet dinner in the B&B and then back to a pub. Although we looked into some other pubs, the only one with music was O’Donnells. As our Scottish friends had all headed back to Scotland, we knew they could not kidnap us again . The music was more of the rebel song variety and the crowd was not as ‘into it’ as the night before.

Friday October 18^th, 2024

Heading down to Athlone, we encountered our first real rain. That did not stop us from visiting two historical sites. The Beltway circle is a Henge, similar to Stonehenge, but with smaller stones. The signs estimate it was built about 2,000 – 1,500 years ago. Somehow, these ancient people knew how to line things up as the winter solstice rises through two particular stones. I find it amazing that, without computers or written records, they could know where the sun would rise. Even more amazing, how often could they see the sun actually rise, versus being blocked by clouds? Ireland is green for a reason: it rains a lot!

Arriving at Athlone, we checked into a nice B&B and then wandered the town, walking along the Shannon River. We found a brewpub for dinner which, unfortunately, was likely the worst brewpub we have ever visited. A completely uninspiring beer menu and limited food. You can’t win them all.

Saturday October 19^th, 2024

Clonmacnoise – a well preserved religious site.

Rising early, we left our B&B, where breakfast was not provided unless you paid an additional €15/pp, and we visited Clonmacnoise. This was probably the best ruins we visited. It is managed by the Office of Public Works (OPW) and there were videos, signs and handouts to guide you. The original site was dated from 556 AD and rests on the Shannon River. Over the years it was continually raided by Vikings, Irish and English. It was abandoned in the 1500’s by decree of King Henry VIII when he did away with all the monasteries.

It is in good condition and was well worth seeing, the brilliant sunshine was an added bonus. This was followed by lunch and a hike. Our evening had us dine in a local pub and then call it an early night.

Sunday October 20, 2024

We headed into Dublin and after checking into our B&B, we set out for our tour of the Guinness Storehouse, or brewery. It was a self-guided tour and a bit pricy for what you got. Us being us, took way longer than suggested. The tour ended up on the 7^th floor where there were sweeping views of the city. A pint of Guinness was part of the package.

Dinner was next at a revered restaurant in the Temple Bar area. I had made reservations and we were able to pass a number of folks who were waiting for a table. As it was our last night in Ireland, we both had Guinness stew, which filled us up. We were glad for the 30-minute walk back to let dinner settle.

Monday October 21, 2024

We returned our rental car and almost ran into a problem. There was a slight nick in the passenger tire and the first clerk said it would require a damage report. I balked and she got her supervisor who told her no, it was not reportable.

Checking in for our flight on Iberia Express, a budget airline, we departed a bit late for Madrid and started our Spanish adventure.

I’ll post more about Spain at a later date.

Thanks for reading. Please feel free to leave any comments or contact us through the contact form below.

Cam and Meg

Our Irish Adventure Part I of II

Arriving In Ireland

Monday October 7 and 8, 2024

Arriving in Dublin, we picked up our rental car and headed for Kilkenny. The route we followed and the sites we saw for the first 7 days is captured in this Google map.

https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/edit?mid=1ygm2k0DnVa4OuRByNi_vDApEaxojXVk&usp=sharing

A 250 year old bridge over the river Nore

We had an amazing BnB for two nights with a wonderful and engaging hostess. During our first full day there, we headed south and visited some ruins, small towns and did a short hike. The historic significance of the different ruins is amazing.

To fully capture the history of Kilkenny, we did a walking tour and learned the history of the community and how things came to be. Restaurants were plentiful in town and we dined at Kytelers. This is a pub that goes back to the 1300’s. The original owner was married four times, each time her husband died shortly after they were married. Not surprisingly, she became richer after each husband passed. Her fourth husband was a widower and his children were none too pleased he left everything to her.

Through influence, the children from her last husband arranged to have her tried for witchcraft. After the evidence was presented to local noblemen, the sentence was for her to be burned at the stake. Being wealthy, she managed to escape to England and was never heard from again. Of course, as we were visiting near Halloween, the place was decked out with witches’ garb and we took a photo in the requisite hats.

Wednesday October 9, 2024 – Heading to Killarney

Moving on south, we headed to Killarney. Here we stayed in our first Manor, the charming Cahernane House Hotel. We had a beautiful room with a small patio on the ground floor that overlooked pastures and cattle. The Manor is set back from the road by 500 meters, which limits road noise. We were encouraged to book dinner reservations at the manor, however, being tired, we politely declined.

Our first afternoon we headed into town and wandered around. The town is 100% a tourist town. There was no shortage of businesses that would sell you sweaters, hats, beer and anything else. It was very quaint. When we had seen enough, we returned to the hotel to rest and then walked to a nearby brew-pub. Both the beer and pizza were great.

Thursday October 10, 2024 – The Ring of Kerry

We were up early and had a great breakfast in the dining room. Our plan was to drive the Ring of Kerry. Leaving at 08:30, there were a few stops along the way. In the end, we drove 22km of the 175 km as we simply spent too much time at each of our stops!

We started at Ross castle. It was not yet open for the day, however we saw the spectacular early morning sun on the building. Carrying on, we explored the Muckross Friary – a beautiful, unrestored but abandoned stone building. Like so many other Friary’s in Ireland and England, it fell into disrepair after King Henry VIII shut them down. As it was still early, I managed to capture a stunning shot of the sun coming through a small window. I reflected on how many times in the past 1,000 years the sun come had come in that window.

Finding stops on the Ring of Kerry

Our next stops were at a waterfall, followed by a stone circle. We ended up in Kensame for lunch and then headed out to see a sheep dog demonstration. Both the sheep and dog know the rules. The dog runs like the mad hatter and sheep head in the direction they are told. At times the dog will nip at the sheep’s hind legs, so there is respect. A few years back, some farmers tried to get rid of the dogs and use drones.

This worked well the first time, however sheep are not as stupid as one may think. After a few times, the sheep figured out that drone would not nip at their heels. Then, the sheep ignored the drone and went where they wanted. The dogs were brought back in and everything returned to normal.

We considered our options after the sheep dogs. Seeing as the next site of interest was over an hour away and it was 2:30, we decided to return to our Manor. It was a good call. A group who were staying at the Manor had arranged for a falconry demonstration. We watched as falcons, hawks and owls were brought out.

We dined in town at a local restaurant.

Friday October 11, 2024 Bunratty Castle

Our entertaining host for a great dinner. Note the jugs of wine!

With a bit of a later start, due to the Manor grounds being so charming to walk around, we headed off to Bunratty. Arriving at a standard B&B, we ditched our bags and headed over to the castle. It was a 1KM walk down a very country road. There we took part in the Medieval feast and celebration. It was a very enjoyable experience and well worth the money. Interestingly, some guide books say to skip it as it is too touristy. It was a bit of history of the castle, a show, a four-course meal with unlimited wine or mead and a musical presentation. We very much enjoyed ourselves and sat next to some locals.

Saturday October 12, 2024 Galway via the Cliffs of Moher

It was onto Galway via the Cliffs of Moher. On this day the Cliffs were WINDY! Arriving around 10 AM, there were very few tourists and we wandered around. As the morning progressed, coaches continued to arrive and it was time for us to leave. Galway was next and after checking into our accommodations, we took the bus into town and wandered about, walking back to the hostel. Based on our level of activity the last few nights, it was an early night.

Sunday October 13, 2024 – Galway

We headed into Galway to find a laundromat and caught up on laundry. Then, returning to the hostel, we returned to town for a walking tour. Normally walking tours are great and they provide a lot of history. We both agreed this one was a let down. The guide, during our 1 ½ hours together, provided only a bit of history. He focused more on pointing out his favourite bars.

There was a microwave at our Hostel and we took advantage of it to have a lighter meal from the supermarket. Then we headed out to a local pub but were not able to find any music. One pint later we returned home.

Monday October 14^th, 2024

We did another look at Galway and bought an Aran Island sweater. We had planned to go over to the Aran Islands, however the timing was too tight. The wind was supposed to pick up, which could cancel the return ferry. Not wanting to get stranded on the Aran Islands, we passed.

We will publish Part II of our Irish tour soon.

Thanks for reading, please feel free to leave any comments below. You can contact us on the form below.

Cam and Meg

June 30th – we head to the Yukon

A bit of a hiccup with our rental car…

July 1st – Canada Day

July 2nd – Off to Dawson City

Some of the challenges of the Yukon

July 3rd – Dawson City

Gold mining on a commercial scale

Touring the town and restored buildings

July 4th – back to Whitehorse.

July 5th – exploring the outdoors and Whitehorse

July 6th – heading home

Arriving at YVR Airport on Time but the Connection is late…

Our Seat Companion – a Parent with a Baby…

Arriving in England (we can read ALL the signs!)

Arrival in Bristol

Day II in Bristol

A Glimpse of the Blitz

Travelling to our Football Match

The Other Side Scores 🙁

The Midlands – Day IV

Midlands Day V – Black Country Living Museum

The Dangers of Coal Mining

Midlands Day VI – Travel to Morocco – A New Adventure for Us

Puerto Chapais, Mexico.

A “Real” Mexican town

Huatulco, Mexico

Snorkelling in Clear Blue Water

Puerto Vallarta, Mexico

Travel like a local on a local bus

International Wine Tasting On Board

Changing Cruise Ships

Are Elevators Really that Hard to Use?

Starting off with Sea Days

Back to Aruba

Transiting through the Panama Canal

How the Locks Work

Panama City – Another Capital City Visited

Fresh Local Fruit from the Jungles of Panama

Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Making Our Own Tour

Our Private Beach

Do Not Try This At Home

Heading to a New Ship

New Elevators – a Challenge for Some People

Setting Sail

It’s Better in the Bahamas

A Historical British Fort

Cozumel, Mexico

Belize

MSC’s Private Island

Winding down

Friday November 8, 2024

Moroccan food in France…why not?

Saturday November 9, 2024

Sunday November 10, 2024

Monday November 11, 2024

Tuesday November 12, 2024

Friday November 15, 2024

Every Chateau has an in-depth history

Saturday November 16, 2024

Sunday November 17, 2024

Technology meets history with interactive iPads.

Monday November 18, 2024

Art is alway appreciated in France

Saturday November 2nd, 2024

Sunday November 3rd, 2024

Monday November 4, 2024

Tuesday November 5, 2024

Wednesday November 6, 2024

Thursday November 7, 2024

Friday November 8, 2024

On to France!

Our thoughts on Spain, this time…

Monday October 21, 2024

Tuesday October 22, 2024

Wednesday October 23, 2024

Touring Toledo

Thursday October 24, 2024

Friday October 25, 2024

Saturday October 26th, 2024

June 30^th – we head to the Yukon

July 1^st – Canada Day

July 2^nd – Off to Dawson City

July 3^rd – Dawson City

July 4^th – back to Whitehorse.

July 5^th – exploring the outdoors and Whitehorse

July 6^th – heading home

Saturday November 2^nd, 2024

Sunday November 3^rd, 2024

Saturday October 26^th, 2024

Monday October 14^th, 2024

Tuesday October 15^th, 2024

Wednesday October 16^th, 2024

Thursday October 17^th, 2024

Friday October 18^th, 2024

Saturday October 19^th, 2024