Day to Day

April 30, 2024 – Kona

Time to head south along the coast in an attempt to find a great snorkelling spot that we visited on a previous trip.  Neither of us can remember the name or any directions other than it was near the Captain Cook memorial. What we do remember is that the fish are actually visible from the shore – no real need to even get wet.

Once again we find a new-to-us spot  (that means we didn’t find the place we were looking for).  Nothing looks familiar as we tackle very narrow roads, but somehow it feels okay.  We end up at Manini Beach (note the Captain Cook Memorial on the far shore – we weren’t all that far off the intended destination).

Definitely not the place we were heading to, but a lovely spot to relax, swim, and yes, see the colourful fish without even getting wet.  

April 29, 2024 – Kona

Again we rent a car and go in search of new-to-us places.  Listening to the recommendations of the shuttle driver and various blogs, we head back across the island to the Waipio valley.

Beautiful to be sure, culturally and historically significant to the native Hawaiian people, but sadly not worth the driving time.  The valley is not accessible to visitors, so we are confined to a lookout.  Turns out driving for over an hour is not one of the things I will do exclusively for a view.

The freedom of a rental car allows us to explore the historic village of Honokaa, the mid-island town of Waimea and head back to the west coast to find a beach to relax on for the bulk of the afternoon.  

And of course, our favourite craft brewery anywhere is the final stop of the day.

April 28, 2024 – Hilo

Today was again about finding new-to-us experiences around Hilo.  To do so, we headed along the eastern and southern coasts of the island.

Now we do not have international data plans on our phones, the rental car did not have GPS – we are relying on comic maps of the island and an app called maps.me.  The comic map will get you along the major roads, but that’s it.  maps.me has the smaller roads….in fact, some really minor roads…roads that really shouldn’t be considered roads….roads that appear in the graphics exactly the same as the major roads.

Those minor ‘roads’ get us to some very beautiful, very secluded spots though. Spots we would not have found otherwise.

We also come across roads that were buried in the recent Mauna Loa eruptions.

It is astounding to see exactly where the lava flowed.  The forest comes to a hard stop right beside the barren rock.

Life is already starting to return though.  Standing in the same spot we are able to see the devastating strength and utter resilience of Mother Nature all at once.

April 27, 2024 – Hilo

Besides its active volcano, the big island of Hawaii is also known for its observatories.  Some of the world’s largest telescopes are at the top of Maunakea because of the lack of back scatter and typically clear skies.  Due to a steep and rugged access road beyond 9200 feet – and the fact that altitude sickness becomes a real threat above 10,000 feet – it is difficult for casual visitors to drive above the Visitor Centre.  Hiking however is allowed.

Knowing the air is thin, we take it very slow.  The vegetation is sparse, the wind is strong, and we are warned that the sun’s UVs are excessive.  The view is astounding.

Looking down into so many extinct volcano cones allowed us to  better understand how this big island began as many smaller ones, finally united by lava and still growing with the continuing flow from nearby Mauna Loa.

April 26, 2024 – Honolulu

With each visit, we try to see, do or discover something new.  In our experience, if we attempt to replicate a fond memory we are usually disappointed.  With this in mind, we head off to hike to the top of Diamond Head for the first time.

This is definitely not a unique or new idea.  As with so many activities on Oahu, the volume of demand has forced the creation of a streamlined system to allow as many people as possible to participate safely. In this case, it means a reservation is required to hike and numbers are limited – still enough to support a gift shop though.

That said, it is about a 40 minute walk up a paved, but not necessarily even, pathway, followed by about 200 stairs. Loyal readers know that I will do almost anything for a view – and I am not disappointed.  Not only do we overlook Waikiki, but neighbouring islands are visible on clear days.  There is also an incredible view of the crater itself. The full ring of the caldera and floor really gives perspective to the magnitude of the dormant volcano and is very humbling.

April 25, 2024 – Honolulu

We first visited Honolulu and Waikiki in 1992.  It was one of my first tropical experiences and everything was new and different to me: pineapple and sugar cane fields, hula shows and live oysters to open in the hopes of finding a pearl.  

Thirty plus years later and the Dole factory has been replaced with high end shopping.  The pineapple fields exist only as a tourist attraction. Today the tropical vibe manages to exist along side a bit of a Vegas feel.  The beach is still the main attraction, the surfers still gaggle, and mai tais still beckon.  

Despite all the changes, there is a sense of familiarity to it.  I think I may even have taken the same picture each time we have visited!

April 24, 2024 – Vancouver

Here we go again! We will be away for only two weeks this time.  The ‘Relax’ portion of our lives has lasted less than five weeks and involved much gardening, laundry and organizing. We are off today for Hawaii.

As we sit in the departure lounge overlooking the international arrivals area at YVR, I am remembering my feelings coming down those escalators.  Sometimes relief, sometimes regret at returning to our daily lives.  Always distress at the anticipated wait time at customs…and always taking for granted that we are home.

Watching the incoming passengers, I realize many others feel those same emotions, but not everyone.   For some, this is a once-in-a-lifetime visit; for some, the start of a new life.  They are feeling excitement, trepidation, marvel and perhaps insecurity.  It is an arrival to be celebrated and landmarked  – not taken for granted, even lamented.  Though Cam and I roam, we do know that we are extremely fortunate to have Canada as our home.  Travel only makes us take it less for granted.

March 8-15, 2024 – Kuta, Bali, Indonesia

We knew before even getting to our accommodation that Kuta was not our style.  It is an endless stream of flashy bars, tattoo studios and souvenir shops.  Thankfully, our place has a full kitchen and private pool – purposefully booked because everything is closed on Silent Day.

The beach in Kuta is touted for its beautiful sunsets.  We enthusiastically headed out the first evening to stroll the beach and enjoy the view. That was foiled not only by the clouds, but by the garbage that covered the beach.  As we headed to the boardwalk, we were assaulted by duelling cover bands – each louder than the previous.

As Silent Day (Nyepi) approached, the locals diligently worked on their statues of mythical creatures for the Ogoh-Ogoh parade.  It happens the evening before Nyepi begins.  We had been looking forward to it, but sadly, decided not to venture out in a raging thunder storm. 

The final day of our odyssey was Silent Day.  Until a few years ago, even the internet and television, were shut down for the day.  Today, all the stores and even the airport are closed. Anyone caught on the streets is fined (although I’m not sure who is out fining them). We took full advantage of our private pool – quietly of course – and have no excuse not to be fully packed and organized for our return to Canada.

March 1 – 7 Sanur, Bali, Indonesia

It is hard to believe that we will be home in Victoria in a week.  These six months have absolutely flown by for us.  Just a few days left in another part of Bali and then we are done.

This last week has been spent in Sanur – a town on the south east corner of the island.  It attracts an older crowd than Ubud – we don’t seem to be affecting the average age of tourists here – up or down.  The attraction is the

I never considered myself picky when it comes to beaches – but alas I think I am.  This beach doesn’t appeal because there are no waves.  The water just gently laps against the sand…and there are sea snakes… highly venomous ones at that! No ocean swimming for this girl!  Just sun bathing.

That said, we did go snorkelling at a nearby island as well as paddle through mangroves, watch the sunrise, enjoy a few patios, banana boat, get massages and of course, eat very well.  A lazy week to wind down this adventure.  

February 21- 29, 2024 – Ubud, Bali, Indonesia

These last few weeks of this grand adventure were intended to be more laid back and relaxed than the rest of our travels.  So rather than a day by day entry there will be a place by place entry.

Ubud is inland and known for its nature and temples.  We have explored waterfalls and rice paddies, temples and palaces, done yoga and massages, gone ATVing and white water rafting, sampled local coffee and of course, eaten very well.

It has been very difficult to find a legitimate experience – one without concrete and gimmicks.  Even the local walk through rice paddies is on a concrete walkway etched with advertising.  Ubud has been a tourist spot so long that the locals have created the experiences they think we want.  Apparently,  I am out of step wanting to know the history, origin or process – not just a photo opportunity.  Then again, it could be a generational thing – we are bringing up the average of tourists in town.

It had been very interesting watching the locals prepare for Galungan.  We have seen more and more elaborately decorated bamboo poles, called penjor,  appear over the last few days.  This festival will last until Silent Day on March 11.

February 20, 2024 – Penang, Malaysia to Ubud, Indonesia

The prices here in Indonesia are going to take a bit of getting used to.  We withdrew the maximum – 2.5 million – from the ATM.  No, we can not buy an island…that’s only about $225 Canadian.  

To be handed a bill for 147,000 for dinner is a bit off-putting.  In reality, about $12.50 though.

February 19, 2024 – Penang

We had wrestled with deciding whether to stay in Georgetown or along the beaches for our time here in Penang.  In the end, town won since we will be in Bali for the next three weeks.  Today we headed north to check out the beaches – for future reference.

We had been warned by a previous resident that the beaches weren’t great.  Here’s our take…the beaches are fine.  Good sand, amenities and trees for shade.  It’s the water that disappoints.  It is cooler than further north somehow, and very murky.  Georgetown was the right decision for us.

February 18, 2024 – Penang

Several locals had let us know earlier in our stay that Saturday night would be fireworks for Lunar New Year and Sunday would be a ‘cultural celebration’.  Now, fireworks at midnight is well past our bedtime. I managed to sleep through them, but Cameron said it sounded like a war zone.  This is not one elaborate display like the Symphony of Fire; this is everyone setting off firecrackers in their backyards and streets.  

Today we headed into town for the cultural celebration – but of course, too early.  We will be ‘home’ winding down before things really get going.  

February 17, 2024 – Penang

Time to start exploring some of the rest of the island of Penang.  We are off an a bike tour that promises to show us parts of the island that tourists don’t see.  

To get ahead of the heat of the day, the tour starts just after sunrise – note the length of my shadow

And takes us through palm oil plantations, along irrigation canals, past fishermen’s jetties and villages.

The best part (for me at least) is the coffee!  Here ‘black coffee’ has nothing to do with having milk or not.  Black coffee refers how the beans are roasted.  Sugar, butter/margarine and a bit of salt are added to the beans and then roasted just to the point of burning – hence, black.  ‘White coffee’ doesn’t have the additions, nor is it roasted as long.

February 16, 2024 – Penang

Historically Penang Hill was the first British Hill Station in Asia, dating back to 1793.  Today, it is accessible by funicular and a popular tourist attraction.

We found very little history, but we did enjoy exploring the tropical rainforest via a canopy bridge and tree top walk.

February 15, 2024 – Penang

The Clan Jetties of Penang are a different twist on the traditional China town.  Dating back to the 1800s when Chinese workers could not find housing, the jetties are still home to hundreds of people today.

The homes are built on stilts out in the water.

One clan has embraced the UNESCO world heritage designation and opened to hoards of tourists.  The Chew jetty is crowded and lined with souvenir and snack shops.

The other jetties have chosen to remain relatively private – after all these are still people’s homes.

The shanties are close together, precariously constructed and fairly simple – but there is air conditioning and satellite TV!

February 14, 2024 – Penang, Malaysia

Georgetown Malaysia is known for street food and street art.  Street food is everywhere, with influences from everywhere, and we will pretty much be living on it for the next week.

The street art is primarily in the old town and can be found around corners and down alleys. 

The most famous and fun are the interactive works by Ernest Zacharevic.

Even the informative signs that explain the history of the area are works of art.  What looks like a simple cartoon is actually made of wrought iron.

February 13, 2024 – Kathmandu

All our domestic flights are completed now, which means higher baggage weight…which means time for shopping (finally)!

We have very much enjoyed our time in Nepal.  The history is fascinating; the traditional architecture quite unique and the natural beauty truly awesome.

The people are warm and friendly – many still living and working in very traditional settings.

February 12, 2024 – Kathmandu

After Cam’s not-beef cheeseburger experience, we’ve noticed that beef is actually hard to find in Nepal.  Most red meat is actually buffalo.  

We’ve seen a few steak houses here in Kathmandu.  Off we go for dinner.  First place we visit has steak alright….ostrich steaks.  Nope…that’s not what we are looking for.

We do find what we want.  Salad, steak, veggies, fries, and dessert for both of us….$20 CAD.  The glass of mediocre red wine…50 cents less than my steak dinner!!

February 11, 2024 – Pokhara

Full disclosure – I can barely walk today.  Booking a hotel with no elevator sounded just fine until the reality of it today!

At any rate, yoga is very prevalent here.  There are flyers for walk in classes, teacher’s seminars and overnight retreats.  Seems like something that should be done while here…when in Rome and all that.

It’s low season, so our ‘walk in’ class turns out to be a private session.  Beautiful views out over the lake.  Very relaxing.

February 10, 2024 – Pokhara

We woke to absolutely clear skies – and witnessed the sun slowly lighting up the snow capped mountains.  I’ve seen the Rockies and the Alps, but there is something oh so majestic about these Himalayas.

The trek up yesterday was along the ‘touristic’ route; today our guide says he’s taking us down the ‘local’ way.  This takes us through forest and glen – all with magnificent views of the mountains and valleys.

And then…after two hours, he asked if we want the short way or the long way for the remainder of the hike.  Three hours or two.  We pick two.  Little did we know that literally the entire walk was stairs. Not nice even paved stairs but irregular, rocky, often wobbly stairs.  Many almost knee high.  It was a looong two hours let me tell you!

 February 9, 2024 – Australian Camp, Nepal

Australian Camp is a village along the trekking route to Annapurna Base Camp. It’s one of several dotted along the way that serve as overnight or resting spots along the way. We hiked up today – pardon me, we trekked up today – and will hike down another route tomorrow. 

The route is well travelled. Of course, there are many trekkers like ourselves, but also the locals. There is no road access to these villages – everything is carried up. All the food, furnishings, fuel, building materials …everything.  And yet, there is wifi and cel phone coverage! 

Unfortunately, the clouds moved in this afternoon and the mountains were obscured. We did see them briefly earlier.

February 8, 2024 – Pokhara

We have seen a lot of spelling mistakes in these travels – some we can decipher, some lead to confusion. 

We thought we knew what a “pedal boat” would be.  We are expecting what we would call a paddle boat – not this. 

What is called a paddle boat here is this….

Makes sense I guess – after all it’s propelled by paddle not oars. The heaviest paddles on earth though.  So heavy we had to rest them on the gunnels as we paddled. 

February 7, 2024 – Pokhara

Another day to just shrug, laugh and know that sometimes the tourists get sucked in. 

There are many tours on offer here, and one that caught our eye was horse trekking.  The agent tells us we will be picked up at the hotel and the horse ride is an hour.  Okay, sounds good.  The pictures show a good trail and amazing views.  It’s clear enough that we should at least get decent views.

We are waiting outside the hotel at the allotted time – and up stroll two boys leading ponies.

‘Pick up at the hotel’ apparently means the “horses” come to us.  The trail is simply the waterfront walk we have ourselves been doing for days now (NOT the trail in the photos).  And the hour ends up being only 40 minutes – but that’s a good thing because the whole exercise was ridiculous.

February 6, 2024 – Pokhara

Six days in Nepal and today was the first time we are able to see the snow covered Himalayas.  Until now, they have been shrouded in cloud or smoke/fog.  The smoke is not from vehicles like in Delhi, but rather from fires burned in the evening and overnight to keep warm and cook.  It is one reason that this is low tourist season.

To get a panoramic view of the Annapurna range, we head up to Pumdikot.  The taxi took us most of the way, but we had to climb the last bit – through the village to get to the view point. 

Well worth it.

February 5, 2024 – Pokhara

Wandering along the lake front, we decide to head toward the carnival lights.

Turns out it’s …. Disneyland! (no trademark infringement there!)

Certainly not up to Walt’s standards!

February 4, 2024 – Kathmandu to Pokhara, Nepal

So far on this trip we have flown into, around or out of seven countries – many airlines, but all pretty much the same.  That is until today; until we are flying domestically in Nepal.  Maybe we shouldn’t expect much from Yeti Air (no joke – that’s the name).

Pictures may help…temporary counters at check-in, open doors on the bus out to the plane, guests from the inbound flight still off-loading when we arrive at the plane, baggage trucks moved by human power, and tractors pulling the fuelling tank.

In the end, we and our bags arrived safely.  We are however re-thinking the return trip to Kathmandu.  A 25 minute flight just sounds so much better than 10 hours on a bus.

February 3, 2024 – Kathmandu

We have decided that we will try an overnight hike during our time in Nepal – and with that in mind set out to buy local wool hats and mitts.  There is shop after shop selling them, so it should not be an issue.

Turns out mittens that fit our large North American hands are in fact hard to find.  When there are none in the shop, we are invited upstairs to check the inventory.

It took some digging but in the end we both get hats and mitts for $8 total.

February 2, 2024 – Kathmandu

The further along in this trip we get, the less we have planned.  We really have no idea what we want to do for the next two weeks here in Nepal.  Today we are just exploring close to home.

We are staying in the Thamel area of Kathmandu.  This is the old town with narrow streets and traditional buildings.  

Of course, there are the typical pleads to look in every shop, but overall the atmosphere is gentler than we found in India.  The merchants are not as insistent, the taxi drivers less relentless, and the air cleaner. (Cleaner but not clean).  The views might be outstanding if only the air was clear.

They seem to love the open air here.  The windows in the hotel are all wide open; every restaurant has outdoor dining or at least open doors and windows.  Usually we love that – but the temperature maxes out around 20 degrees; it’s probably around 10 for breakfast and dinner.  We will get used to eating in our jackets, hats and gloves I guess.

February 1, 2024 – Delhi to Kathmandu, Nepal

The flight from Delhi to Kathmandu is two hours – including a time change of…wait for it…15 minutes. Somehow this translates into a nine hour journey door to door.

Firstly, the traffic in Delhi…three lanes are painted on the road, but the vehicles are five across with motorcycles weaving between them. 

Secondly, the flight is delayed by 3 hours because of, well, um, just because.  No explanation is ever given.

Once we land, there are lines to apply for visa on arrival, to pay for visa on arrival and to have the Immigration Officer to validate the visa on arrival.  We queue for a SIM card, exchange currency and find an ATM.  

Sadly, it is full darkness when we leave the airport.  We can’t see any distance, but are happy to find walkable sidewalks!  Exploring will have to wait until tomorrow.

January 31, 2024 – Jaipur to Delhi

We have travelled on public transit in over 50 cities worldwide, so we are surprised to find something new. 

Here in Delhi, there are several  metro lines each named for a colour – nothing new there.  There is colour coding along the walls to let you know what line you are on – nothing new.  In the transfer stations, there are colour coded footprints on the floor to follow to your desired line…that’s new. 

(Some days it’s hard to find the sparkles in the sidewalk – today is one of those days)

January 30, 2024 – Jaipur

We had a ‘mom and technology’ incident today – our kids will know what that means.  

After visiting Hawa Mahal, also known as Palace of the Winds, I pulled out my cel phone to perhaps order an Uber to take us to the Amber Palace.  After discussion, we decided to find food before we headed out of the city.  Fair enough – and we start wandering with me tightly holding my phone.

Turns out that you can actually order an Uber without looking – simply holding the phone with the app open will do it.

The problem is that the pick up point in smack dab in the middle of a labyrinth of slums; the drop off point is not the Amber Palace but a fort nearby.

Jaigarh Fort sits high in the hills above the Amber Palace.

It served as a summer palace because of its location.  The walls are of course fortified, but the palace is calm and peaceful – even today as tourists are less likely to visit here than the popular Amber Palace below.

January 29, 2024 – Agra to Jaipur

Time to reflect on the language here in India.  Before we arrived, we had read and been told that because there were so many local languages around the country, English was the common way for all to communicate.  That does not seem to be true; many many people we have encountered do not speak any English.

One guide explained that even though English is taught in school, conversation is not the focus – reading and maybe writing are.  He knew one fellow who had a Master’s degree in English, but could not converse. That may explain why signs can be written totally in English when a good portion of the population doesn’t speak it.

We have seen words like opine, desirous, and alighting.  Words rarely used in North America – and certainly not on public signage.  Mind you, the rules on those signs are seldom obeyed, and rarely enforced, so maybe the literacy rate is not so high after all.

It also seems that there are no words in the other various languages for relatively recent ‘inventions’. We hear advertising “blah, blah blah tooth sensitivity blah blah”.  The safety briefing on the plane “blah blah blah life jacket blah blah blah”. And public announcements on the metro “blah blah blah cel phone blah blah blah”.

January 28, 2024 – Agra

Took a morning train down to Agra. After all, we don’t want to be the only tourists to visit India and not see the Taj Mahal.

Before we get to the Taj, we explore Agra Fort.  I was expecting a fortified garrison as implied in the name.

  It is that, but there are also several palaces within the walls.

And then of course, the Taj Mahal.  It is a truly impressive structure.

Despite the crowds, I was able to get a couple of clear photos.

January 27, 2024 – Delhi

Because it is a long holiday weekend, the main attractions are overwhelmingly busy.  So, we explored a bit off the beaten track today.  Not too far off, but not the Red Fort.

The history here is astounding.  There are many lesser known tombs, step wells and ruins.  Yesterday, we checked out Ugrasen ki Baoli – a step well visited by many local tours.

Today, we found Ramon Ki Baoli – another, much less known, step well that is actually more elaborate.  Yes, the water needs some attention (that is not a garden at the bottom), but the structure is more accessible and intricate.

Hauz Khas is the remains of a seminary, mosque and tombs dating back to the 1200s.  

In fact, once we start wandering, there are many unmarked ruins to be found.  So many that the locals simply take them for granted – even play cricket between the ancient walls.

January 26, 2024 – Delhi

Turns out that January 26 is a national holiday in India.  This means two things – many tourist sights are closed and there are fewer crowds in the streets.  Because we don’t have an option to put it off for another day, we head to Old Delhi anyway.

Now this is the squalor we’ve heard about in India.  There are people bathing at the community water taps, others doing laundry on the sidewalk.  Piles of garbage line the gutters.  Alleys are sometimes too narrow for two people to pass.  The pictures just can not capture the environment.

And yet, there is also everyday life, laughter and smiles.

January 25, 2024 – Delhi

Flying overnight allowed us to see the sunrise from the air.

And that’s a good thing because the fog and pollution were so bad that we couldn’t actually see the ground until we hit it – no hope of seeing the sun.  Yes, we are wearing masks outside – the air quality index is around 470.  I believe the scale maxes out at 500.

After checking in to the hotel, we headed to the Lotus Temple.  This is a Baha’i House of Worship, and one of the most visited religious sites in India.

The architecture is just amazing.  Below are contraband photos of the interior as no photography is allowed.

Next we headed to the Amar Colony market area to sample some local food.

The chicken tandoori momos were excellent. The metro system seems safe and easy; Uber works a dream. I’m shocked to say that so far I’m enjoying Delhi – chaotic as it is.

January 24, 2024 – Flic en Flac, Mauritius

So, overnight, the storm has stalled just north of Mauritius but is now predicted to go down the west side of the island – the airport is east.  With fingers crossed, we head across the island to explore the south east area before leaving.

We find a ‘biscuiterie’ that has remained unchanged in 140 years.  The biscuits, to be honest, taste like sweetened sawdust.  Turns out the only ingredient besides sugar and butter is manioc.  What is manioc you ask? It’s another name for cassava.

We have time to explore the small town of Mahebourg which was the site of many naval battles over the centuries.  Today, there is a lovely promenade.

With low hanging clouds, but no rain and little wind, we head to the airport.  Yes, our flight was delayed, but once airborne, it was one of the smoothest flights we’ve had in recent years.  In the end, cyclone ‘Candice’ was not an issue at all for us.

January 23, 2024 – Flic en Flac, Mauritius

A few days before we arrived, Mauritius faced a cyclone which killed 8 people.  The meteorologist who underestimated the storm got fired.  We have found only a bit of evidence of the storm.  

Today, there is another cyclone warning – due to hit tomorrow when we are leaving.  With the recent tragedy fresh in the minds of Mauritians, they are taking it seriously.  Us once-in-a-lifetime tourists not so much.  

We head out to the middle of the island to visit an old plantation house. Closed.  We head to the nearby town for lunch. Closed.

We finally concede that it might be time to buy some groceries ourselves and hunker down.  The evening brings rain, a bit of wind, but that’s it.  Truly not a bad as some of the rain storms we’ve experienced back home.

January 22, 2024 – Flic en Flac, Mauritius

Mauritius is a volcanic island – much like Hawaii in topography and vegetation. 

Here there is a area known as ‘Seven Coloured Earth’. It has something to do with metals repelling each other and oxidation, but the result is quite unique.

We’ve noticed the familiar animals here are much larger than at home.  Snails and sea urchins are big to be sure, but the bats are truly the size of crows- perhaps even bigger.  They are actually called flying foxes they are so big!

January 21, 2024 – Flic en Flac, Mauritius

Everything we read about Mauritius said the bus service is irregular and unreliable.  Now that we are here, there seems to be plenty around – not sure whether they are regular or reliable though.  We have rented a car for our time here.

With that freedom, we head to the southwest corner of the island to explore.  Honestly, it seems to be much the same as the rest of the island that we have seen – a lovely mix of tropical and modern.  A Caribbean feel, but with more amenities.

January 20, 2024 – Port Louis, Mauritius

OMG – it is HOT on the Tropic of Capricorn in January!  It’s the equivalent of July in the Caribbean.  The sun is truly overhead – check out the lack of shadow!

We are visiting Mauritius for the next few days.  Our AirBnB is right on the beach in a town called Flic en Flac (the name is just so fun to say) and thankfully air-conditioned.  I may never leave!

January 18, 2024 – Nosy Be, Madagascar

I had hoped to see lemurs and baobab trees in Madagascar, but the itinerary has been changed and we are only in this port for 5 hours. Worse, it’s a tender port which means there can be significant delays getting ashore.

With limited time, and poor weather, we just walked around town.  Hellville is what we are coming to expect in this part of the world – an organized chaos with a market and school.

An eclectic mix of modern and traditional.

And then it starts to rain in earnest. 

In short, one of those days when attitude is the difference between ordeal and adventure. We are still smiling – wet, but smiling!

January 16, 2024 – Das Es Salaam, Tanzania

Sometimes you just have to shrug and laugh.  Today was one of those days.

We decided to visit the National Museum of Tanzania in hopes of air conditioning and possibly wifi.

Here is what we encountered after paying our admission…

No joke!  Needless to say there was no air conditioning, and certainly no wifi!

January 15, 2024 – Zanzibar, Tanzania

Today we arrive in Tanzania and my visa application is still in progress.  Cam’s was rejected right away, but he re-applied and received his visa a week later.  Mine has been “in progress” for a month. 

My plan is to head ashore armed with screenshots of the application and payment, ready to plead my case if the opportunity presents itself, expecting to be returned to the ship.

But…there is no Immigration process.  Passengers simply walk through the terminal and out onto the street.  That was a lot of worry and stress for nothing, and it does lead me to question the entire process.

So…Zanzibar…Stonetown in particular.  It has character.  We were ashore early enough to walk through the labyrinth that makes up the town as it was waking up.  Children heading to school; shops just opening up.

There is the requisite old fort, but also lovely gardens and restored buildings.

Our education today revolved around the slave market. Slaves from all around east coast of Africa were brought to Zanzibar to be sold. The practice took place for hundreds of years, under several foreign administrations. Some believe that the term ‘black market’ originated here.

And of course, Freddie Mercury was born here.

January 14, 2024 – Mombasa, Kenya

I have to say that I was disappointed with Mombasa.  It is the first place we have been that felt unsafe.  Other places we have been warned about pick pockets and scammers; here we were warned not to take any valuables ashore.  With this in mind, we grab a guide to show us around rather than heading out on our own.

Mombasa has a varied and interesting history having been ruled by the Portuguese, Arabians and British for centuries.  Fort Jesus was built in 1593 by the Portuguese, but used by all the ruling nations over the years – for various purposes.

Everywhere we were shown today had a very run down and neglected feel.  There are many homeless sleeping wherever they can.  We encountered more unpleasant smells than we had in India; saw more begging and desperation.

 Even the ‘tusks’ for which Mombasa is famous are in need of repair and upkeep. 

January 12, 2024 – at sea

For the first time ever, we had our laundry done on board.  

Perhaps, it will be the last time as well!

January 11, 2024 – Le Digue, Seychelles

Le Digue is a 10 square kilometre island with a population almost exactly the same as the number of passengers on this ship. Although there is a mountain in the centre, the roads follow the shoreline so we opted to rent bicycles and explore.

Down at the south end of the island we discover an almost deserted beach – just like something out of the movies (my photos just don’t do justice to it).

Along the side of the road at the north end, there is a sea turtle chomping away.

In between, some super funky local hang outs.  

January 10, 2024 – Port Victoria, Seychelles

Port Victoria is the most populated centre in the Seychelles – a population of approximately 22,000 – on the largest of the islands. Once ashore, we walked into town to catch public transit to the opposite side of the island where the beaches are.  It’s a short, picturesque – but very windy (as in twisty, not air movement) – ride.

The beach area is everything one would expect of a secluded tropical island.  

The island is not as commercial and built-up as the Caribbean islands, but has good roads, well kept properties and reliable wind and solar power.  If it weren’t literally half the world away from home, it might become our go-to winter vacation spot.

January 9, 2024 – at sea

Finally made it south of the equator!

January 7, 2024 – at sea

One benefit of the piracy thing is that the upper deck lighting is turned off at night.  That means the star gazing is amazing.  There were clouds blocking about half the sky last night, but tonight was clear. 

You know the stars are bright if my iPhone will take a photo of them. 

It’s been a while since we have seen the Milky Way!

January 6, 2024 – at sea

Something new for a sea day – a piracy drill.

As the letter states, we are sailing through an area known for piracy – only heightened by the current tensions in the area.  Sure enough, at 10 am, “For exercise, for exercise…”

Passengers are told to return to their cabins, close the drapes, turn off the lights and stay away from the windows.  There is only a few feet between ‘close to’ and ‘away from’ the windows in these cabins – hopefully it would be enough in an actual event. 

Eventually, we are told to evacuate the cabins and stay in the hall outside.  Apparently in an actual emergency, we would be lying down in the hallway.  Trust me, there wouldn’t be much extra room if that were the case!

Interesting that we have done this drill here, but there was not even a  mention of a similar risk in the Strait of Malacca.  Different cruise line? Or is the risk just that much more here?

Here’s hoping it is only ever a drill.

January 5, 2024 – Dubai

Spent most of the day just driving around to the local sights – at the mercy of a taxi driver to determine what we should and shouldn’t see. He seems to have covered off all the highlights. 

And my favourite…The Museum of the Future

January 4, 2024 – Abu Dhabi

I’ve heard it said that the people of Doha and Dubai don’t like the Flintstones, but the people of Abu Dhabi do.  I’ve heard it said many times – after all Dad jokes bear repeating apparently.  (That one’s almost as baaaa-d as the lamb joke.)

Headed ashore with no plan and ended up exploring the desert.  It was everything that you picture.  The dunes are shockingly high; the sand amazingly fine; the sun hot and unrelenting.  It is awesome in the true sense of the word.

We rode camels, watched the sunset (and yes, it cools off quickly), and then were able to stargaze in the desert. Unfortunately, there was a fair bit of cloud cover.  

It makes it hard to believe that these huge, modern, fully-serviced cities can be constructed in such an extreme environment.  No wood, little fresh water, minimal arable land, yet somehow they survive and thrive.

January 3, 2024 – Doha

Here’s a bit of the behind the scenes goings on.  A bit of the stress of long term travelling that I haven’t shared yet…paperwork.  It’s a challenge to get it done with intermittent internet and irregular schedules.  

So… our Doha to Mauritius cruise starts today.  We have checked in online, but had no access to printers to produce the boarding passes and luggage tags that we are told we must have to be allowed to board.  There is also an issue with our visas for Tanzania.  Although they were applied for almost 3 weeks ago, they are still ‘in progress’.  The cruise line has communicated that boarding will not be allowed without appropriate visas.

With both issues weighing on us, we head over the cruise terminal – fingers crossed. 

Bags are dropped off, no issue.  Security is cleared, no issue.  Immigration (should be called Emigration because we are leaving the country), no issue.  Check-in, no issue.  Anytime we were asked for our boarding passes, we simply said we didn’t have access to a printer and magically they found our information with barely a blink.  No one even asked us about our visas.

A lot of stress and worry for nothing as it turns out.  “It will be all right in the end.  If it’s not alright, it’s not the end.” We are onboard – fed and watered. Ready for another phase of this adventure.

January 2, 2024 – Doha

After learning the history of Qatar yesterday, we decided to focus on modern Doha today.  This took us to The Pearl – a totally man-made island of retail, restaurants and residences. 

The architecture was anything imaginable – and some copying from other parts of the world.

Low and behold – in the shadow of the “Rialto Bridge”…a taste of home! (Yes – the maple glazed donut tasted pretty much the same).

The coolest thing though was the musical stairs.  You break laser beams as you step and each stair plays a note.  

January 3 we are heading to another cruise ship and will end up in Mauritius on January 20th.  We will not have much WIFI onboard, so will be silent for a couple of weeks.  I plan to catch up from the beach at Flic en Flac.  We will be reading emails though – [email protected]

January 1, 2024 – Doha, Qatar

Right…forgot that mosques broadcast Calls to Prayers very early in the morning.  So, despite the two and half hour time change, we are up early.

We set out for Souq Waqif. The market is a warren of alleys and shops.

It looks like Aladdin should appear singing ‘One jump ahead of the lawman’.  It really had a bit of a staged feeling.  Turns out there was a major fire in 2003 and the area was re-built in 2006.  That’s why is seems to be perfectly classic.

Stopped for breakfast a local place.  Cam ordered an omelet – and is told it comes with bread!      

Spent the rest of the day wandering and exploring near the Souq.  Tomorrow we will venture further afield.

December 31, 2023 – Marari, India to Doha, Qatar

As we leave India and head to Qatar, it’s time to reflect on the last three weeks. I think we are both ready for traffic rules, drinkable water and general cleanliness.

The free-for-all that is India has been enlightening.  Park your car anywhere, the traffic will honk but go around.  Electricity goes out randomly, but routinely, no one blinks.  Efficiency and effectiveness are of no value it seems – ‘whatever’ appears to be the attitude.  

The pace is slow and yet the feeling is chaotic.  Patience is needed everywhere: Pedestrians shuffle literally dragging their feet, average driving speed is 30 km/hr and schedules for transit are merely estimates.  Even restaurants can take close to an hour to deliver food – that’s just the way it is.

The people are friendly though.  Many asked where were from and if they could help us in any way.  Others shyly asked for photos with us.  Yes – a few try to scam you, but it almost seems like a game to them – no hard feelings.

It really was a different world.

As an aside – spending New Year’s Eve in a totally dry country was perhaps not our best planning moment!

December 30, 2023 – Marari

I’ve often thought I’d like to have seen the places we visit years ago – before they became tourist hotspots and lost the local character.  Well, I may have to re-think that after staying in Marari.

Here there are no resorts, no loud bars, no souvenir shops.  There are a few home stays along the beach and that’s about it.  Our home stay is not even accessible by road.  The host picked us up in a Jeep on the main road and drove us along the beach to get here. 

No jet skies, para-sailing or other excursions, no touts at all. Just wildlife, local fishermen and hammocks.  Sounds idyllic – as long as we enjoy the food on site because there are no options.  

With intermittent electricity and therefore intermittent WIFI, there is truly nothing to do.  Welcome after these hectic few weeks, but also somehow a bit claustrophobic.

December 29, 2023 – Thekkady to Marari

Besides tea, this area is also known for spices.  There are many spice garden tours available.  Not what you think though – or at least not what I expected.

I’m expecting to see the spices that made the Spice Route so important – nutmeg, cinnamon, pepper, clove… – to  find out how they grow, are harvested and processed.  

There is a bit of that, but the focus quickly changes to traditional Indian remedies.  To listen to how wonderfully these botanicals work it’s a wonder there is a need for hospitals in India. No one should ever have any issues.

And of course, you exit the garden through the gift shop.  Here the high pressure sales really begin.  Sure, there are some cooking spices available, but mostly it’s bottles of supplements, ointments and other remedies

And…if you say you can’t get medicinals through customs, conveniently there is a ‘doctor’ there (white lab coat and glasses make it legit I’m sure) who will write a prescription for you.  Problem solved. (No – we are not bringing any home with us. Not enough luggage room!)

December 28, 2023 – Thekkady

When we arrived in Thekkady yesterday we were surprised to find that all hiking or boating activities were booked up for today.  It had to be the only place in India where there is no guy who knows a guy who knows a guy who is willing to do whatever it takes to relieve eager tourists of their money.

In actuality, the activities all take place in the adjacent National Park – and they are highly restricted and rightly so.  We don’t know the numbers allowed each day, but did find out that the next available boating is December 31.

At any rate, it turned out for the best as today dawned damp, cool and windy.  Not weather we would choose for sitting on a bamboo raft for hours.  Instead we simply wandered around town – and rested as the hectic schedule of the last few weeks is catching up with us.

December 27, 2023 – Munnar to Thekkady

This area, the Western Ghats, is known for tea.  We were able to get a plantation and factory tour with only minimal sales pitches (yay) but with limited English (boo).  

Here, the same plant produces three types of tea – white, green and black.  The difference is the maturity of the leaves.  The unopened tip becomes white tea; the next two tender leaves are green tea; black tea is made from fully open leaves below.  

Pickers pick in the early morning – often before sunrise.  This not only beats the heat for the workers, but allows them to pick the white tea before it opens up in the sunlight.  All picking is done by hand – no machines.

December 26, 2023 – Munnar

Two quick things today – rubber and elephants.

As I’ve commented, there is very little automation in India.  Rubber harvesting is no exception.  The trees are slashed diagonally and the sap collected in small pots.

The sap is then hardened in larger trays (think 9 x 13 baking pan).  These blocks are then manually fed through a press – it looks like a giant wringer – to form thinner mats of raw rubber.  

These are then dried in the sun and finished off in a smoker type contraption – this is what turns the rubber black apparently.  Once completed, the sheets are sent to a larger factory to be made into tires and shoes we are told.

Now, elephants…I am an eleFAN after all.  Several locals have told us about a spot along the river that the elephants frequent at sunset.  Of course, I’m in.  Turns out that it is not a secret!

Sure enough, right at sunset, out comes a ‘tusker’.  We are told that the rest of herd will come once the male leaves.

We watched for over half and hour – even I’d had enough by then.  “See a herd of wild elephants” will have to stay on the bucket list for now.

December 25, 2023 – Coonoor to Munnar

Merry Christmas to you and yours.  

(Taken in Coonoor beside a wild poinsettia)

December 24, 2023 – Coonoor

The area around Coonoor are beautiful.  Lush and green, nestled in the hills – very picturesque.

Tea plantations are everywhere. The spaces in the fields allow the workers to access the plants to pick manual.  The trees help hold the soil in place during the monsoons – and give at least a little shade to the workers.

That’s the side that is shown in the travel brochures.  The reality is that – but so much more.

More people vying for the perfect photo spot.

More garbage along the roadsides and pathways.

More traffic, making access to those viewpoints tedious.

In fact that traffic was so bad it took over an hour to go 2 km.  (We got out and walked the last kilometre – the driver picked us up after lunch).  Crazy!

December 23, 2023 – Kabini to Coonoor

Travel day, and I was wondering how it could take 4 hours to drive 126 km – especially since most of the drive is on numbered roads and highways. Well, let me tell you.

People, tractors, cattle, chickens on the road.

Dogs on the road; monkeys on the road; dogs chasing monkeys on the road.

Goats on the road, crops on the road, goats trying to eat the crops on the road.

As we wind through a nature reserve, there are speed bumps every 200 m.

Then…the driver tells us he is taking a short cut.  It’s the wrong way down a one way road – but “okay sir and ma’m – one kilometre only” Remember, traffic signs are only suggestions here. 

His next shortcut involves a two way road thankfully – but it’s only as wide as maybe a lane and a half.  Two tires on the shoulder every time there is opposing traffic.

Then, we start climbing…36 hairpin turns!  On this same narrow road!

And that is how it takes 4 hours to drive 126 kilometres on numbered highways (with a couple of ‘short cuts’)

December 22, 2023 – Kabini

The safari in Hambantota, Sri Lanka was a spur of the moment decision.  Today’s safari has been planned as long as the trip has been.  We are told there are herds of elephants to be seen.

Off we go at 5:30 am, just as the sky begins to lighten.

 We see deer (lots of deer), monkeys, various birds, giant squirrels, even a wild boar.

No elephants – lots of traces of elephants, but none to be seen.

What we did find was fresh tiger tracks.  

And eventually, the tiger. What a majestic creature! (These photos are taken with my phone – no expensive camera, no fancy lenses.  That’s how close to the vehicle she got!)

Still a bit bummed about the lack of elephants though.  Thank goodness we saw them in Sri Lanka!

December 21, 2023 – Mysuru to Kabini

We have headed to the banks of the Kabini River – pretty much in the middle of nowhere –  in the hopes of seeing wildlife on safari tomorrow.

There seems to be only a handful of houses clustered into tiny villages and a couple of resorts in the area. The only dining option is their restaurant, so the driver stopped along our way and told us to buy food. 

Limited options here too I must say!  Resort dining room it will be!

It is very relaxing here though – after the chaos of Bengaluru and Mysore.  Took a pedal boat out to see our cabin from the water and ended the day with a bonfire.

December 20, 2023 – Mysuru

Another palace to explore today – Mysore Palace.  This one much more impressive inside and out.  Still a bit of upkeep lacking, but not enough to spoil the feel.  I think I would have enjoyed living such a life.

And in this historic site, somehow we became the attraction.  It started with school children trying to take awkward selfies with us in the background.  Eventually one got the courage to ask for a selfie with us, and it mushroomed from there.  Hoards of kids, and then their chaperones, wanted pictures and fist pumps. 

Coming from our multi-racial country, it is hard to imagine that our skin colour is such a novelty.  When we stop to look around here though, it is.  There are not many Caucasian tourists.  We also have to remember that many of these children have never left India, maybe not even their state or town.

This however was not the royal treatment I was thinking about when I imagined I could live the life.

December 19, 2023 – Bengaluru to Mysuru

It’s been one of those days – a few wee adventures.  

Because Bengalore Palace is closed Mondays, we visited before we headed off to Mysuru (Mysore).  It would have been a beautiful place in its heyday, but sadly has not had the upkeep needed to retain its glory.  That included the washrooms.

The mens’ were out of service, so Cam was shown to a hidden one.  For some reason, the attendant locked the door from the outside after he showed Cam in.  Imagine Cam’s surprise and then panic when he couldn’t get out.  He pounded on the door, but no one helped. Eventually he saw me wander near the window and called out.  Yes…I unlocked the door (opportunity lost?).  

Saw this sign in the hotel elevator, but didn’t think much about it.

That is until the power went out while we were in it.  Note that it did NOT descend to the next floor nor open.  It did nothing.  Thankfully the power was only off for about a minute – long enough for the unease to set in for sure.

And our final adventure was a brush with the black market.  We are out wandering the neighbourhood around the hotel in Mysuru and find ourselves being solicited for…beef.  The men yell out to get our attention, then pull back curtains to show the sides of beef hanging.  

It has been an interesting day!

December 18, 2023 – Bengaluru

When I say we wander around, I mean 20,000 plus steps wandering.  And ‘wandering’ is a very gentle word for the attention that is needed to navigate the sidewalks. 

Maps don’t show the conditions, so when we decide to walk somewhere we are hoping for something like this,

But may get this.

Usually it’s somewhere in between.  Not only do we need to watch where we step due to the free-range dogs but also due to the condition of surface…or lack of a surface at all

But we need to watch up due to the low clearances of trees, awnings and even signs

And we need to watch ahead due to possible obstructions.

After negotiating this for much of the day, we decided to take the Metro back.  Honestly, it was cleaner and felt safer than the train between LAX and Long Beach last January.

December 17, 2023 – Agonda to Bengaluru

Travelling in general, and in India specifically, has many surprises. The flight experience from Goa to Bengaluru (formerly Bangalore) is no exception.  

Firstly, the baggage weight restrictions domestically are less than internationally, so even after we had jettisoned some superfluous items we had to do some re-balancing at the airport.  Not such a welcome surprise.

It was also surprising to see boarding passes are not electronically scanned – they are manually crossed off on a paper as passengers board.  Seems archaic but….when was the last flight you were on that left early?  Not just a minute or two, but 20 minutes early! 20 minutes!  Maybe the manual system is actually more efficient!

Next surprise was breakfast.  Yes – on a domestic flight that is one and a quarter hours, a full breakfast was serviced.  That was a surprise; the mystery was what is actually was.  A bit spicy for my breakfast taste buds, but at least it happened.  

Somehow the 20 minute early departure turned into an hour early arrival, but our bags were coming off the luggage turntable as we entered the arrivals hall.  Can’t remember the last time we didn’t have to wait for our bags. Surprise!

December 14 – 16, 2023 – Agonda, Goa, India

When picking up your laundry (which was done for you) is the hardest job, it’s a good day!  That was Thursday.  Friday and Saturday we have spent applying for our African visas and booking travel for the next time we are in India.  It’s a challenge when the electricity randomly goes out and internet is lost. 

Some differences between this beach and Mexican or European beaches: No loungers and umbrellas, almost no touts, and cows! On the beach, on the road, even sticking their heads in restaurants.

December 13, 2023 – Agonda, Goa, India

Ahhh…we need this!  We are in the small town of Agonda (population about 4000)  – staying right on the beach.  Finally, I can break out the bathing suit!

The concierge tells us that there are dolphins in the area – and sure enough…

One travel site described the town as ‘molasses-paced’.  After Mumbai, that will be great!  The resort boasts ‘ocean front beach huts’…doesn’t mention they are attached and one top of each other.  They are ocean front, and huts, but not quite what we were expecting.

Ours is truly a ‘garden hut’.

Hopefully there will be nothing much to post for the next few days.

December 12, 2023 – Mumbai 

On the drive to the train station this evening (we are taking an overnight train to south Goa), some of the apartment building looked like stained glass.  That is how bright the wall colours are inside.  It is a stark contrast to the bland, often neglected look of the exteriors of these buildings.  

For example, we visited the office of the company that put together our tour.  The office is bright and modern.

To get to the office…now that’s a different story.  No elevator, wires hanging everywhere – clearly no public safety or building standards have been enforced (if they even exist).

That’s just the way it is.  Clearly, we really shouldn’t judge a book by its cover – or a building by its exterior apparently.

December 11, 2023 – Mumbai

Left the ship this morning and started our tour.  Today, because we had a guide and driver with us, we were able to cover a lot more ground than yesterday on foot.

Here are some thoughts and observations from our day.

Mumbiakars do not seem to believe in pressure washing or exterior paint.  Some of the most expensive real estate in the country looks old and run down because of it. Even the crosswalks are almost invisible because the paint is so faded.

What we considered a slum area yesterday is not even close to the real thing.

It seems very little upkeep has been done on the lovely buildings the British left behind 75 years ago.  From a distance they may look great, but not so close up.

And yet, some of the British influences can be found in places – like our hotels guest register, and bells at each table in the restaurant to call for waiters.

December 10, 2023 – Mumbai

Oh my…not really sure how best to convey Mumbai.  It is crowded, cacophonous, and chaotic.      Hygiene is not a thing; personal space is non-existent; traffic signs and signals appear to be just suggestions.  And we are told that Mumbai is far better than Delhi!

We are docked in South Mumbai – close to all the major tourist attractions – so we set off, alone, to tick some boxes. On the way…street cricket!

Gateway of India, Taj Mahal Palace hotel, Prince of Wales museum (officially Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya – but that’s way to hard to remember) and Colaba street market all ticked.  And then…

We wandered.  Found ourselves in what we would consider a slum area – run down apartment buildings, piles of discarded ‘stuff’ lying around, kids and dogs roaming free, just an overall aura of poverty.

It actually felt less threatening and in a strange way gentler than the other areas we had been to.  Everyone seemed honest, helpful and almost honoured that we were there.  

December 9, 2023 – at sea

Another sea day, and time to reflect on Sri Lanka.  It was what I imagine India is, but less.

Less opulence, less poverty, less chaos, less crowded, less smell, and less scamming. Even Cochin has been less than I was expecting – but everything we read says that will change once we reach Mumbai tomorrow – and later, Delhi.  

We are coming up to the portion of the trip that I’m most trepidatious about – India.  We do have a private tour booked for the next 3 weeks, but will be returning in late January to tour the Golden Triangle on our own.  

It will be what it is …. 

(It has taken the better part of the day to get these last few posts up.  Hopefully the internet will be more reliable once we are ashore)

December 8, 2023 – Cochin, India

The backwaters of Alleppey are touted as “the Venice of the East”.  (One of a dozen or so places in India with that moniker actually)

Parts remind me of the Caribbean,

Parts remind me of the Mekong River,

Parts are quintessentially Indian.

None is actually anything like Venice.  It is nonetheless beautiful in its own right.

December 7, 2023 – Cochin, India

Dhoby (pronounced ‘dough-bee’) is a word I learned decades ago in the Navy.  It means laundry.  Dhoby dust is laundry detergent.  I never though about its origin; just more Navy slang as far as I knew.

Today, we were shown around Dhobi Khana – a laundry service that has been in Fort Kochi since 1720.  Originally established to wash the uniforms of Dutch soldiers, today the local hotels have their linens washed there.

Everything is hand washed

Then hung out in the sun to dry. No clothes pins – items are held in place by twists in the rope.

The only ‘machines’ we saw were the irons used to press everything.

December 6, 2023 – Colombo, Sri Lanka

On one hand, the capital of Sri Lanka appears to be a beautiful, modern city with modern architecture and lush gardens.

One the other hand…roti and brake oil being sold from the same dilapidated kiosk. 

workers carry cement manually

And there really are snake charmers!

December 5, 2023 – Hambantota, Sri Lanka

All of the “Things to Do in Hambantota” revolve around animal viewing.  The best times of day to see leopards, bears and elephants are dawn and dusk (6 am and 6 pm).  Unfortunately, the ship arrives at 8 am and departs at 6 pm – not ideal.

None the less, we give it a go.  Climb into a tuk tuk that will take us to the National Park where we transfer to a Jeep.

The roads get rougher and rougher 

But there is an abundance of birds and wild life.

And finally, after almost 3 hours of bouncing around on bad roads, we turn around for the three hours back.  As we hit the first paved road … lo and behold….elephants!

December 3 – 4, 2023 – Sea Days

(Nothing particularly interesting – and the internet is frustratingly spotty – so no entries. Let’s see how long it takes to post December 5 – 8)

December 2, 2023 – Phuket, Thailand

The fact that this  island was featured in a James Bond movie was not the draw, it was the   landscape of Phang Nga Bay … and it didn’t disappoint.

But the highlight today was a visit to a small village (1300 ish residents) built on stilts in the bay.   

The local children attend school there until high school, but the teachers actually live on the mainland and commute by boat each day.

Love the uniforms!

Phuket has definitely recovered from the tsunami almost 20 years ago. It seems fully developed and vibrant – we found no evidence of the destruction.  There were warnings and evacuation routes were clearly posted however.

December 1, 2023 – Penang, Malaysia

It is hard to believe it’s December as we battle 32 degrees and 90+% humidity.  The random Christmas decorations seem out of place amongst palm trees. 

We will be back in Penang for a week in February, so today’s plan was just to walk off the ship and explore – find out what area we want to stay in, get a feel for things to do and see.  We ended up hiring a taxi to cover a greater area.

We covered a lot of ground and have a much better idea of what our time in February will be like.  For now, I will just share a few of my favourite photos from today.

November 30, 2023 – at sea

Usually a day at sea involves open ocean and only rarely encountering another ship.  Not so in the Strait of Malacca – a narrow strait between Indonesia and Malaysia.  Not only is there constant shipping around, land is visible most of the day.

It’s one of the most important shipping routes in the region – perhaps even the world…and known for piracy.  Of course, there is no mention of that onboard, but it’s a thing.  Actually a bigger problem here than around Somalia.  

No worries, we are through safely.  The worst thing that happened was a thunderstorm.

November 29, 2023 – Singapore

Back on the same ship that we started on – this time heading from Singapore to Mumbai.  Several of the crew members actually remember us by name from our previous cruise.   It’s as close to ‘home’ as we will get for a few months yet.

A word about Singapore – it has lived up to its international reputation – larger than life on many levels.  Briefly, we did get away from the popular areas, and with a very informative local (thanks Geraldine!), got a glimpse of the more mundane.

A very large percentage of Singaporeans live in public housing – most of it outside the downtown area.  This does not carry the stigma that it does in North America – it is just what is done.  Units are purchased on a 99 year lease and can be rented out or sold.  Often the government will determine that the building needs to be replaced before the 99 years – but will relocate the occupants if this happens.

Of course, newer buildings are becoming higher; individual units smaller in an attempt to house more people on the same land area.

November 28, 2023 – Singapore

Now that the major tourist essentials have been ticked off, it’s time to head out to explore a bit deeper.  We headed out of the core and found the trails at the Southern Ridges.

Here there are two options for walking through the jungle – down on the ‘earth trail’ or elevated on the ‘forest walk’.  It’s amazing how different the same space looks from those two vantages.  I had no idea that palm trees look like roses when viewed from above.

We found the Henderson Waves – an interesting bridge ‘based on mathematical concepts’.

Back in the downtown area,  a roof top garden on the 51st floor with a great view.  The building also has a garden between the 17 and 20th floor – an open space complete with a yoga alcove.

November 27, 2023 – Singapore

Singapore is such an iconic place with just so many ‘must sees’.  We spent a good chunk of today doing just that. 

One of the ‘must dos’ is eating a hawker centre.  Hawkers are street food vendors – but the government didn’t want them selling on the streets, so they created covered centres.  We have actually tried several – some nicer than others but all essentially the same.  

There are rows of vendors selling many types of cuisine, and seating areas.  The practice is to stake your claim to a table by putting something personal on it and then leaving to get your food.  We have seen employee scan cards, backpacks, sweaters, even phones left as markers.  This means the spot has been claimed – it doesn’t mean someone forgot them when they left. 

November 26, 2023 – Singapore

I have still not been south of the equator – Singapore is one degree and change north.  Close but not quite …and somehow taking a 4 hour bike tour sounded like a good idea!  32 degrees – marginally okay; 92% humidity, not so much. 

We did cover quite a bit of real estate though.

November 25, 2023 – Taipei to Singapore 

Even with all the places that we have visited over the years, we are still finding new things.  Taiwan is no exception.

For example, highway service stops.  Driving the 401 between Toronto and Ottawa, the service stations are pretty basic – gas, washrooms and food.  Not the case in Taiwan.  While there is still gas, food and washrooms, there are also clothing, jewelry and handmade shoes.  Handmade shoes?  Seems like a strange thing to suddenly realize you need while on a road trip.  

At the airport there are very few boarding announcements.  Rather than hearing constant prompts and updates, someone simply holds a sign stating which zone is boarding.  Now that we know the process we will try to wait in a spot where we can see the gate – not with our backs to it.

And of course, the wildlife is different.  What we expected to be a wasp’s nest is actually an ant colony – Saint Valentine ants.  

November 24, 2023 – Taroko Gorge to Taipei

Taroko Gorge has been the highlight of our time in Taiwan.  It is a gorge cut through cliffs of marble.  When the sun is out, the white rocks are blinding. The scenery is spectacular.

At its narrowest, the gorge is 10 meters wide; at its deepest, 600 meters from the river to the top of the cliff.  It’s impossible to capture this in a photo – at least it’s impossible for ME to capture this in a photo.

A road has been carved through the steep rock face – in many places only single lane so the going is slow as opposing traffic is forced to pull over – sometimes having to back up to find a place wide enough.  

November 23, 2023 – Taitung to Taroko Gorge

One of our stops today had a “Hermit Crab Changing Platform” – a spot for the crabs to upgrade their shells.

Apparently, hermit crabs were found using such things as plastic bottle caps as shells.  Volunteer groups have set up the change stations to help out.  

Basically it’s just a bunch of shells scattered about, but apparently the crabs do come and exchange shells as needed. 

I thought it strange that the changing area wasn’t at the water – it was up a hill about 100m from the beach.  Even the signage stated the crabs prefer to be wet.

Turns out there are land hermit crabs on Taiwan…is it any wonder they can’t find sea shells when they don’t live by the sea?

November 22, 2023 – Kaohsiung to Taitung

Taiwan, like Vancouver Island, has a line of mountains running pretty much the length of the island north to south.  We have been exploring the west side, the Strait of Taiwan side. Because it has a wide flat plain between the mountains and the water,  this is where the bulk of the agriculture, and the majority of the population, are found.

Today we have rounded the southern tip – where the Pacific Ocean and the Strait of Taiwan meet.  It is marked, of course, by a light house.

This lighthouse is a small fortress – literally.  There are gunports in the enclosure walls and even a moat. At the time Eluanbi Lighthouse was built, the 1880s, the opposition from the local natives was ‘severe and sustained’.  Hence the fortifications.

In the area, there are also many outcrops of ancient coral.  This is called ‘Cat Rock’ because supposedly it’s shaped like a cat.  I just don’t see

And this is called ‘Big Sail Rock’ – again I just don’t see it.  I definitely do see the profile of someone with a big nose – and lots of hair.

November 21, 2023 – Sun Moon Lake to Kaohsiung

The great thing about being on a tour is that you learn more than you would on your own – like how dragon fruit and loofahs are grown. 

We have also learned that Taiwan has been tossed about politically since the Dutch first arrived in the early 1600s.  Despite wars and earthquakes, there are still parts of Fort Zeelandia standing which date back to the 1630s. Apparently, sticky rice, sugar and oyster shells make really strong mortar. The Dutch left Taiwan in the early 1660s – driven out by the Chinese.

Fast forward a few hundred years, and as we are leaving this historic area, there are several pairs of fighter jets flying by overhead.  Although they look far away in the photos, the noise was deafening.  

North American media would have us believe this is a recent escalation and perhaps it is. The fact that the populace didn’t even blink would belie that however.  Not even the school children looked up – it is just the norm here apparently.

November 20, 2023 – Taipei to Sun Moon Lake

Time for us to leave the transportation and planning to someone else.  We are on a 5-day tour around the island of Taiwan booked through a local tour company – Edison Tours.

Now our accommodations so far on this adventure have been fine – no bells and whistles, but clean, safe, quiet and comfortable.  Edison Tours boasts 5-star hotels along the way – booking.com sells tonight’s room for $807 Canadian.  A price that would cover our other accommodations for about a week.

So what does $800/night get?

Well the thing that strikes me first is the view.  It’s astounding as we walk into the lobby…and into our room.  

What else? Well, the room is definitely bigger than most we have seen in Asia – on any of our trips.  There is a mini hot tub in the bathroom (and a window into said bathroom from the bed). 

The bottled water comes in glass carafes and is filled from a fancy water purifier. The balcony is actually designed for sitting on – another rarity in our Asian experiences.  Other than that, the room is nothing particularly special. 

The facilities…those were certainly more extensive than any of our other accommodations.  Besides the usual gym and pool, there was an Onsen, climbing wall, games area (pool, ping pong and foosball tables, carnival games), children’s indoor adventure course, bike rentals, boat tours, and yoga classes.  

There are 5 dining options – and good thing too because having the peaceful view means there is no other commerce in the area. Room service delivers by robots.

November 19, 2023 – Taipei

Here’s what I’ve noticed about Taipei versus Tokyo – things are bigger here.  The vehicles are definitely bigger, the windows in the apartments are bigger, and the noise is bigger.  Voices are louder, crowds are pushier, and sadly, it all feels more familiar.

As you now know, I love a good view, so on a clear Sunday morning, we headed to the Maokong Gondola.  This gondola is over 4 km long and follows the ups and downs of the topography as it climbs.

Once at the top, there are fabulous views, but also small tea farms that are very manually tended – and of course it then follows that there are many tea shops.

It just so happens that the base of this gondola is right beside the Taipei Zoo.  The Sunday crowds just had to be BEARed so that I could see the giant pandas.  

November 18, 2023 – Taipei

A new country means new cuisine – let the adventure begin.  We headed to the night market area to try out some street food.

The night market seems to sell absolutely everything – clothes, produce, every part of every animal, housewares.  Offal is sold both raw and cooked.

Started out with nothing too crazy – meat buns. (not sure what the ‘meat’ was though).

Next we tried one of the soup stands.  We watched for a while to figure out the process and then jumped in.  Orders are placed by filling out a form – Google translate definitely needed here.

We thought we were ordering won ton soup with added pork sausage and veggies. We received won ton soup with blanched vegetables on the side.  Okay – we can deal with ‘on the side’.

But, what Google translated as ‘crispy sausage’

turned out to be this:

Neither crispy nor sausage in my books.  The owner guessed that this was probably not what we were expecting and manually changed our request to include “fu shou pork (lean meat)”.

Dessert was sweet sesame buns filled with red bean paste – nothing scary there. 

Meatloaf was right – two out of three ain’t bad.

November 17, 2023 – Tokyo to Taipei

After 7 weeks, we bid farewell to Japan today.  

What will I miss about Japan?

First and foremost, the food.  In particular, the sushi.   I’ve pretty much been living on it this last week knowing I’m leaving.

The modesty, respectfulness and lawfulness of the population.  It’s like the North American culture was in the 60s.  The population takes pride in how they dress.  They consider how their actions will affect others.  They respect the laws and rules and their elders.

The quiet – strange with such a dense population, but there have been very few car horns, loud mufflers or even bike bells.  Certainly no loud music or shouting matches.  Even the elevators and air conditioners are almost silent.

The efficiency – the trains, for the most part, run exactly on time.  None of the many automated machines and processes have broken down. 

The lack of litter – despite the over-packaging and dearth of garbage cans, there is no litter – not even cigarette buts.

Heated toilet seats – it took a while to warm up to them (WARM up, ha ha), but as the weather has cooled, it’s more appreciated.

Bottled coffee – so easy to just pour and microwave.  Don’t even have to wait for the kettle to boil!

What will I not miss?

The lack of garbage cans – despite the popularity of quick packaged food, there are practically no trash cans.  I’ve even seen signs in the public washrooms to take all garbage with you and to call the police if you see anyone disrespecting this.  

The lack of benches in public spaces – in a place that has many street food vendors and discourages eating and walking it seems crazy, but there are very few public benches.

Bicycles on the sidewalks – going every direction.  There is definitely a lack of order in an otherwise law-abiding society.

Low clearances – I don’t know how many times I’ve hit my head on the hold straps on the subways and trains.  Even awnings overhanging the sidewalks are a hazard.

November 16, 2023 – Tokyo

Our last day in Japan and time to catch up on some mundane tasks – like buying toothpaste.  Not as easy as it sounds when you can’t read the packaging.  Hopefully our teeth don’t turn purple and fall out!

The next task was to get my haircut.  That proved a bit more challenging.  

Google showed a place not far from where we are staying, so I headed out just after opening.  Hmmm… get to the little red dot and nothing…not even a sign.  As I was about to leave, a granny came out of her house next door and gave me a strange look.  I mimed hair cut and she nodded.  I gave a questioning face and made an X with my arms – trying to ask if they were closed.  She shook her head and proceeded to walk over to their door, ring the doorbell and knock.  Nothing.  Then she started shouting at the window above.  A few moments later someone answered the door, clearly just having been woken up.  The two of them nattered for a bit.  Eventually, I understood that the salon was ‘crosed’ today.  So much for regular business hours.

The next place I tried had signage saying ‘Hair Salon’ – but was a barber shop.  Several more places were fully booked  (or maybe they were just scared of my rather unruly western hair).  

In the end, I did find a place that would take me on the spot – and did a great job.  No photos – but my hair has never been as straight.  Not sure whether it’s the product or the process.  It will be interesting to see how it handles in the rain tomorrow.

November 15, 2023 – Tokyo

Indiana Jones speaks Japanese, but Captain Jack Sparrow does not.

When we were in Tokyo in October we went to Tokyo Disney Sea for the Hallowe’en decorations.  This time, we headed to Tokyo Disneyland for the Christmas displays. 

We made some rookie mistakes on our last trip – but we learned, and this time were able to minimize our waiting.  Don’t get me wrong, there is still a lot of waiting but we did get to every ride that we wanted and even caught a couple of parades and the fireworks.

The most popular rides at the moment are The Enchanted Tale of Beauty and the Beast and Pooh’s Honey Hunt.  Both use new trackless technology that allows multiple carts of riders to experience the ride at the same time.  I’m not sure whether the draw is the new technology or the actual experience.  If it’s the experience, Pooh fell short for me.

Beauty and the Beast did deliver.  Even though the soundtrack was in Japanese, the story was easy to follow – and the music so familiar.

One word of advice for anyone going, bring your own food.  The lines at restaurants exceeded an hour in many cases.  Even the popcorn stands had lines in excess of 15 minutes.  The only place we could find that didn’t have much of a line was the ice cream parlour – probably because it’s November. 

November 14, 2023 – Tokyo

After watching the sun set behind Mount Fuji yesterday, we decided to take advantage of the clear skies and clean air today to go up Mount Takao for a better view of Fuji.

Now, our kids know that I will do almost anything for a good view (even skydiving!). So … we sorted out trains, (this is just one track of many at the station and trains are coming through each platform every couple of minutes)

Rode a chair lift

Hiked a few kilometers

All for a better view of Mount Fuji

There is significantly more snow on Fuji now than when I first saw it on October 6.

November 13, 2023 – Tokyo

TeamLab Planets calls itself a museum where patrons immerse their entire body in vast artworks.  

‘Museum’ would probably not be the word I would use.  It’s an experience. 

Before entering, there are warnings:  you will be barefoot; there will be flashing lights; it will be dark; there is knee deep water, mirrored floors.  Now I’m really not sure what to expect.

The pictures don’t really do it justice.  It truly is an immersive experience.  Different textures on your bare feet, perfume from live flowers, silence and music, darkness and light – the only sense not stimulated was taste. 

The life size balls ebb and flow, changing colours as you move them.

The (real) flowers actually hang from the ceiling and move up and down.

The water appears to have fish swimming in it.

And my favourite – the crystals go on forever.

November 12, 2023 – Tokyo

On a fittingly cold and somber morning, we headed out to the Yokohama War Cemetery for a Remembrance Day ceremony.  It is the only Commonwealth War Graves Cemetery in Japan and over 2,000 Allied service personal are buried there.

Unlike the ceremonies in Canada, the focus was on all Commonwealth nations with representation from many member nations.

Like the ceremonies in Canada, there was The Last Post, Amazing Grace, laying of wreaths and even reading of In Flanders Fields.

Very touching to have the ceremony in the final resting place of so many – far from their homes and ours. 

Lest we forget.

November 11, 2023 – Tokyo

Fitting for November, the weather is getting cooler and cloudier.  We tried exploring in another direction today, but found we wanted an indoor activity.  Lo and behold, we happen upon a museum.

Not a huge one – in fact one that would be easily missed except for the fact that we were looking to get inside.  It’s the Tobacco and Salt Museum.  Sounds strange, but it was actually very interesting.  

November 10, 2023 – Tokyo

Another day to poke around and see what we discover.  We started out at a traditional fish market – where fishermen still come to sell their catches.  Of course, now there are also overpriced sushi and souvenir shops, but there is still a bit of authenticity.

Just a few blocks away, we enter the high end shopping area.  Every name you can think of and then some.  A very different feel from the market steps away.  Found the Lindt store …

Continuing on…a lovely forest – and a chrysanthemum festival.  This time there were even bonsai chrysanthemums.

Exiting the forest, you bump smack dab right back into the urban scape.  Road over tracks over road.  Truly a concrete jungle.

What a city of contrasts!

November 9, 2023 – Kyoto to Tokyo

For better or worse, the Japanese follow rules.  This means there is little speeding or jay-walking – but it also means that check-in and check-out times are inflexible.  Some of our accommodations will charge hefty fees for staying late or arriving early.

This can make it a challenge to time the transportation between cities.  We left our place in Kyoto right at check out time, but still had 2 hours to kill in Tokyo before we could check in. (Shouldn’t have taken the bullet train, I guess)

So we found an Isakaya – that’s basically an establishment that sells drinks and snacks.  Usually very small, hole-in-the-wall type places. The sign says Happy Hour and shows a number of alcoholic beverages for 290 yen (about $2.70 Canadian).  Sounds good.

Get inside, sit down, order drinks. Then the waitress brings over the menu and a separate sheet stating there is a 300 yen seat charge per person. That’s not uncommon at isakayas, but…

At any rate, it killed the time we needed. In the end it would have been cheaper to pay the additional charge at the hotel – but then we wouldn’t have had the experience. 

November 8, 2023 – Kyoto

Cherry blossoms in the spring and fall foliage are two special times in Japan.  It is said that the cherry blossoms march north in the spring; the fall colours march south in autumn.  We have been just a bit early for the fall colours all along our travels.

Apparently, the fall colours are late this year which means many of the fall “illuminations” start shortly after we leave a place. Finally we found one that is on while we are in town – Eikando Temple. 

It is absolutely magical to walk the dark grounds with lights illuminating the leaves and lakes. Admittedly, it would be better if the fall colours were in full swing, but regardless, it was beautiful – and significantly less busy than it will be in a few weeks.

November 7, 2023 – Kyoto

In taking the short tours that we have, we’ve picked up some random facts.  Such as:

I could never be a geisha.  Not because of my age, nationality, linguistics, race or weight – although those would be detriments in the application process.  I wouldn’t even be considered because of my height.  Maximum height for Geisha is 5’4”.

The tippy top of the Kyoto Tower is the same height as the tip of the pagoda at Kiyomizu-dera Temple.  The pagoda is just up a mountain.

One guide told us how to count to five in Shinto: “itchy, knee, sand, sea, go”.  That’s not exactly how they are pronounced, but it’s a starting point and easy to remember.

There are over 85,000 temples and over 77,000 shrines in Japan.  That means you stumble across them everywhere.  We’ve visited the huge famous ones along the way, but also found some hidden ones.  For example, this is the wall across the street from our hotel here in Kyoto.

From our balcony we can see that it hides…..a temple, and cemetery.

Nintendo started in Kyoto in 1889 – making playing cards.  Today, well, it’s everywhere.  Even on man-hole covers…

November 6, 2023 – Kyoto

We managed to complete our morning bike tour and get lunch before the heavens opened and it absolutely poured rain.

Umbrellas rule here in Japan.  No one seems to use a hood.  Either you have an umbrella or you get wet.  Once you reach your destination there are protocols.  No bringing a dripping umbrella inside to make a mess. 

The most prevalent option was an umbrella rack – leave your umbrella at the entrance to drip there.  Apparently there is no need to worry about it getting taken.